Leaderboard

Well, she lives. Couple of teething problems with the coin mechs, need to get some starters for the fluorescent tubes. Payout is temporarily disconnected. Finally fitted the test switch (many many thanks Nick for your generous donation to this project). It's taken a few weeks, but I love it 20251017_182306.mp4

Cheers. Cabinet is pretty good too. I think that parts were robbed out of it in the 80s and it has stood neglected in a 1st floor store room of an arcade gathering dust since then. The arcade has been taken over by new owners (previously owned by same family for 40 odd years) and they were clearing out old stuff. It still has that arcade smell which I love

Well there's progress... She's not finished, but certainly getting there. PSU recapped and tested. MPU pretty much re-chipped due to not booting and proper rusty legs. Many thanks to Magic aka Peter Falconer for his troubleshooting. 7 of the horrid little ZTX450 transistors replaced. EPROMs acquired. Many thanks to Clo and Superbank! Reels acquired. Many thanks to Phil. Reel symbols printed and laminated. Big round buttons and lamp masks acquired. Many thanks to Dave.

It’s nice to see old threads still being helpful and added to after over a decade. i was in my 40s then and by the end of next week I will be in my 60s.👨‍🦳👴

Hello everyone, You may remember a few months ago i mentioned this project to do one day and that day has come. The machine is not working but i am working on that (ie recapped, replaced voltage regulator and checked clock etc), anyway my main confusion is with the MPU1 as i may or may not have some components missing. I am not sure if it came from manufacturing like it or they have been removed (from the back it looks like the former and the front maybe the latter. My plea for help is could someone have a look at their board and tell me the values for D1,D2,R1,R2,R3,R4,C1 and T1, i may or may not fit them, i need to trace them out properly to see where they fall in the circuit but it does seem strange. I would be forever gratefull if someone could have a look. I have attached photos so you can see what i mean. (missing components in the red box) Cheers Jim

They were designed to try and combat a high degree of fraud on S1 coin mechs. Any coin the wrong size that did not fit the cradle at the back would drop out the back,As the front reject plate of the mechs were being levered to one side to gain access to the coin switch from the front so,The metal shield over the coin switch was another anti fraud device then upgraded to the black plastic fitting which completely encapsulated the switch wire arm was another addittion.The black plastic fitting will also spit coins out the back but, As they not used in sevice,as it has been said just block that gap at the back of the unit as shown in picture.

I seem to remember being able to pinch the edges of the round cradle thing inwards for the newer 10p, so they catch and flip.... Or just use cellotape and cardboard.

Here's the meter panel diagram I put together. https://www.fruitemu.co.uk/ib/files/file/1815-mpu3-12v-meter-panel-15300-1/

Hello Just bought a 1980 JPM Super Dice fruit machine as a project. I hope to get it to work again. Since this is all new to me I really dont know where to start. Not many here in Sweden that’s into these types of machines. So I don’t have anyone else to ask really. I think its a Dutch machine, they guy who had it didnt know anything about it more than his father had it in his garage for 20yrs. It looks very original and untouched. But when I turn on the power, just the lights turns on and nothing more happens. I have checked the fuses and sprayed contact spray in all connections. What would be next step? All suggestions are welcome, also if someone had a manual?? I think this is a SRU system 4K? Greatful for help!!!

If Riche had the manual then it's probably been uploaded on here, he was pretty good at that. Problem is that finding them isn't all that easy....

Here is my Twilight Zone fully LED converted 😉

I’ll be paying this a visit ASAP

I wouldn't bother fitting those components. You do have the correct values though. D1 & 2 are 1N4148, C1 is 33uF/25v and T1 is ZTX108. All it did was put a delay in the RESET and I've put a note on it saying not fitted to most boards.

Hello. Thank you CanonMan. I tested : BR1 was right but REC1 was short-circuit. I changed it and now the machine is a little less broken down 😃 When I swtch on the machine, I hear music and some seconds later (time for reset) the digital display and the coin mech light on. That's all but it's a little better. I send the proms today to my friend and I will let you know.

Thanks for your input everyone. I bent the cradle in slightly, and it worked a treat. Coins go in every time and exit through the micro switch. Easy fix for a frustrating problem

I would bet that BR1 has failed short-circuit, very common in my experience.

You are welcome, its been great watching this thread and seeing your machine come to life.

Thanks Clo. And many thanks for the ROMs. Be a pretty dull machine without them!

Looks fantastic, well done for bringing it back to life.

I’ve had this too. I actually wedged a coin partly in there to resolve the issue.

they are designed for the old bigger and weightier old 10p and 5p coins, so they pass through the weighted tip mechanism, the trick is to close the cradle on the tip mechanism so it catches the coin and tips, then adjust the gate so it bounces the right way

Well done on saving a classic, looking great

Love it! Truly an absolute classic 👌

Nice work on all aspects. you can’t beat a good restoration project and seeing what looks like a scrapper being brought back to factory condition.

That is coming on a treat! Great transformation 👏👏 and as always the guys on here come good, with their help 👌

Looking great 👍

Just a small project here as i have been having issues with my JPM Hot Pot(MPS1) The main fault was sometimes not accepting certain coins for no reason and the odd missed payout and as the fault was on and off action is needed The fault was caused by the pins in HD10(the coin interface plug) << As can be seen the pins are shot with some of them pushing in << Start the extraction one pin at a time << First pin out << some nice shiny new molex pins ready to go in << Using this way over expensive tool(about £230+vat ) << Pin in tool << First 3 done << And repeat until all pins done << to be safe i did the 50v supply that's on the same loom << fits nice and easy now and no waggling to get the plug on All Done << Machine now works 100% and flawlessly and should be good for another 30 years A small project i know but another repair procedure now worked out

Hi chaps and chapesses or any other persuasion you happen to have. I've been thinking of getting one of these devices for a while now and as I fancied a bit of a play I splashed out and bought one. You have to buy them as a kit and source your own parts which is easy for me as I had most of them. Full kits do appear on Ebay from time to time with a price to match. The PCB's come from Retro lemon and you can buy them with or without the main processor although it's probably not worth the hassle unless you have SMD soldering facilities. Anyway, I've just completed the build and it worked first time (apart from all the LED's I'd put in the wrong way round). It can test an ever expanding number of RAM, CMOS, TTL chips plus PAL's GAL's and all odds and sods of USSR chips etc. Just as a sample here's a 6116 RAM chip under test. Rotate.mp4 You can buy lots of additional adaptors for all sorts of unusual devices but I just went for the basic to start with. There is an extensive manual too covering the build, parts list and an even larger user manual. Early days yet but I think this is going to come in extremely handy. The only issue I have at present is I can't 3D print a case for it as it's just a centimeter or two bigger than my printer base.

Just treated myself to one of these and got the adapter set whilst i was at it, i am about 3/4 way through building it. I was torn between this and the backbit tester but went for the RCT as it appears to test a lot more ICs, although having said that the backbit does have a 40 pin zif and seems to do more of the old school processors and PIAs etc, the sort found in the old 80s computers (Commodore, Atari, Spectrum etc). Might save up and get the backbit as well at a later date if i feel i would benefit from it. One thing whilst building it i found a job that is almost as bad as PAT testing and that is grading zener diodes🤣

Hi and welcome. If emulation is your interest you would be better off going over to desert island fruits which is all about emulation including files and roms. This site is mainly geared up towards the real physical fruit machine hardware etc. https://www.desertislandfruits.com/ Good luck on your ventures.

Hello, Yes, the card is damaged by battery acid. It needs to be deoxidized. Check all the tracks and sockets. The 5101s are probably dead. Back up the BIN files. If they're still valid. Refurbish this card. It's hard to find in good condition. In France, this MPU was used on Austrian Novomatic machines. Game name: ADMIRAL. You can rarely find them second-hand on classifieds sites; such as; https://www.leboncoin.fr/ by searching for: slot machines, jackpot, machines à sous ..... I no longer have any parts for this machine; sorry. Happy hunting.

First job. get those roms backed up.

Anyone come across anywhere selling this type of T Moulding? I’ve seen it used on Maygay MMM and Bell Fruit Black Box machines(I’m sure I remember coffee tables using it) The project I’m currently working on(will post on here soon)uses this type but it’s too far gone to use. Ideally I’d prefer the original double grooved over a brand new flat chrome or gold but that’s the way I will have to go if it can’t be sourced.

Hello "For fun only" was the law. To say that these machines didn't make money. (what a joke) So on these French versions, there are no tubes for coins. If I won, for example, 500 francs, I signaled to the café owner, who came to note the win. He pressed a button on top of the machine, which reset the counter to zero. And gave me my 500 francs in cash. The machine was ready again. Here are some photos.

Stay away from John "player" Wayne - he's one of those cowboys in sheds that they speak of!

Send it to me, I'll put a new socket on for you.

basically if you don't have the gear then don't attempt it. low heat so as not to lift the tracks, never apply heat for more than a few seconds even with a proper temperature controlled soldering iron, and NEVER EVER EVER attempt to prise the socket out with a screwdriver! if it doesn't come out with finger pressure then its not completely DE soldered. there is no shortcut, anything that goes wrong like pulling away tracks, or pulling out the through hole insides WILL result in tones more hours in corrective action which takes skill to do. here is a video I did 9 years ago with the tools you are suggesting to do it.

Yes, fair point on saving the circuitry working so hard. As long as you like the look that's all that matters. Tbf I have never seen a pinball machine with LEDs on.

Re: pinball and LEDs. Agree, BUT…. …you can get ‘LED OCD’ devices that really help with this. Plus, the ‘daylight’ white colour temp of some LEDs really helps with the playfield insert colours - they’re the actual colour, not a very warm and dull version! I'm all for retro things looking original, but likewise I’ve spent a fair amount of time choosing the right LEDs for my pinball machines, then making sure they’re not too bright. They save a bit of power and are generally easier on the lamp matrix circuitry, and they last years so don’t need changing! A lot less heat too. pictures don’t really do it justice.

I agree. Same with pinball machines. LEDs look a bit too bright

Myself personally I wouldn’t put led’s in an old classic it just wouldn’t look right the fluorescent tubes give it the warm light look as it should have been ,,

others will also tell you once a 'vinegar treated' board is repaired with a soldering iron, it emits a horrible acidic smell which really isn't good for the repairers eyes or nose or anything really. if they have any sense should stop there and send the board back!, once it's been vinegar washed it never can be removed totally, acid is not good for component legs or the copper pcb. acid loves to eat copper no matter how much its been rinsed, it gets under everything and remains there, how you then test for PH neutral, or mix up a acid solution which will leave the PH neutral is not something it seems anyone does when using vinegar. I have, and never will touch any boards that have been vinegar washed, its easy to detect years later when the board goes wrong again too. its similar to saying....... i clean my cars paintwork with battery acid.

I've got a manual for this

I've already asked him and it was was a 'no' as it won't ever support 40 pin devices. Shame that but as Andrew says even some of the well known testers aren't that reliable with CPU's, PIO's etc.