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I've repaired a few Sp.Ace boards. They aren't too bad to work on with light battery damage. Although you do have to remove all the components. Including the box connectors. The ASIC chip seems to have really weak pins aswell,you don't get many chances removing then.

Here is a photo, sorry it is not the best but i have not long moved house and currently building a new garage / workshop so everything that should be in there is crammed into the house ( even a petrol suffolk punch lawnmower under the stairs) 🤣

I thought I'd revive this one with a quick update. I patched the big cutout in the 10p tube with a 3D printed slotted plate, now she's fully back on old coins again.

Some nice old stuff in there https://youtu.be/hvkpFJ3_D7k?si=95EFY-tkn9fU33z0

My Lite a Nudge. Back on 5p/£1 roms😊

My Lite a Nudge. Back on 5p/£1 roms😊

Hey Baz, these any good for you? If not then let me know and i can scan them in at work tomorrow in PDF.

If this turns out to be the Chr chip, very unlikely but possible, I can probably do a patched rom (that doesn't need Chr chip).

It has taken me over a year to get registered on this site, i never seemed to get the email verification through but that now works and i have managed to do it. I still however keep getting the oops something went wrong message whenevr i try to view forums. Amongst my bunch of machines which range from mech to electro mech and mpu4, impulse etc i have a barcrest mpu1 nippy nudger with issues that i am trying to get some ideas on. Look foward to posting soon. Jim

Deaf, not death.

Ah OK, that won't work. You need to try and fully working ROM cart, complete with the correct CHR chip, in the machine and see if it boots up. I can send you one if you want to give it a try and see what happens?

Been numerous times, everything in there is bang on from classic machines, bowling and food.

Absolutely stunning 👌

I won at Noughts n Crosses lol https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1FM6fBRnmh/

A recent video I did when I visited our good friend on here Sulzerned. Cabaret 144😂😂😂😂

Had a decent afternoon on my most recent visit. Here's a short(by my standards😂) video of some of my plays

Here you go.. Jolly Imperial V(1).zip

Often there are no manuals or diagrams. The method I use myself is tracing the wires, where do they go? is there current on the wires compare with another string? Follow the wire back to the motherboard, to the right pin and see if you can trace to which Transistor. Transistors go bad over time. are there burnd risistors? also check if your lights are intact. and if you have continuity in the wires (no break) also check the diodes, if they are bad the string may not work either.

This could be possible. I can increase the resistance of the lamps. I have also replaced the lamps Good idea 😁

Sounds like the hole sizes in the sensors are the issue .I've heard about new light sensors being too bright in mpu3s before so lowering the light emission could be right .

Hello everyone. Took a bit longer, due to delivery problems and personal things. Here is an update of the photo sensors. Unfortunately the new sensors do not have the desired effect. They are super sensitive, which means that with 1 spin the cabinet goes crazy, and you immediately lose your points. I think the sensors are too big and therefore capture too much light. I want to test, by cover the plastic housing with black cardboard. with small holes. see if that works. also I still have problems with the LSI. where? I do not know with every spin I get win points. (Loos//Win) so far the update

Thank you for that, i can now view the forums after a year of frustration. So easy when you know.

Hello, I am from the Czech Republic, the owner of several JPM and Barcrest machines. Among other things, I repair MPU units and I hope to find useful information here or be able to share my own experiences.

Unusual ROM set you've got there. I can't remember seeing a LAN where you can press the start button and get the reels spinning while it's still paying out. Common on NDU MK1, not on LAN

I know this one is a lot newer than all my relics,but I quite like the Fairgames machines. Especially when it's this happy😂

Wow! It's been a while since my last post. Let's play catch up😁

hi everyone i am donna from manchester nice to meet you all i am widowed and have lots of time on my hands would really love to chat talk about old retro fruit machines from the 80s and 90s also my friend sonia says i can play them on this site as if i was back in my old favourite arcade knighleys in wales is this true?if so can someone direct me pleaae thanks d

hello new member here nice to meet you all.i hear this is the place to relive my childhood amusement arcade fruit machine memories.any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.my old favouries were line up cash counter and the early ones acechase fruit king winagain etc.looking forward to the journey thanks

Make sure you get the correct MOD! Early games will run on anything but later games won't run on MOD's 1&2 unless they have a RAM daughterboard with the two tag wires on.

Thats an SP.ACE board, from the likes of Twilight Zone, Grand Prix, Pay Rise etc. Unfortunately looks like the battery has made a bit of a mess of the board as usual.

Checkout my workshop thread on Scorp 1. That's one reason why I refuse to repair them.

Great video! I got my Test Pilot from there back in 2007. I was hoping to see it in the video but sadly not!

I don’t see any negatives at all with redrose bowl, the owner is a collector and enthusiast that goes back decades,you won’t be seeing Hollywood bowl getting line ups etc etc to amuse yourself while the rest of your family kids /grandkids are bowling id happily go and lose £30 on a weekly basis if I lived up that way…

Best I can help with and probably newer than what is in the picture. 42-6976-00_specs.pdf

They are holding up very well thanks being switched on 14 hours a day. There is now in full working order Line Up Frog Hop Adders and Ladders High Lights Exchange Unlimited Fire Cracker All working fine on new coins and getting reasonably used. Cash or Nudge not in the line yet but is fully working with a slight lamp fault Not about making money just good to see them for play and many people love them just for the memories they brought to them when they were younger

For me it’s not about the potential to win or any financial gain, it’s to connect with memories and nostalgia with playing these in the past. Not sure about the licensing or business model. Are the machines on old money and tokens? Is there an exception as they aren’t running legal tender and are they classed as amusements of some sort?

Thanks kind posters

Superhold for a full matrix 20221110_023119.mp4

also made in Sweden as " can can" also kinda similar feature on this texas twin machine

Relays. All relays both open and covered operate in the same way and used like a switch to control up to 3 operations at once or as required by the design of the machine,They all have 11 wiring contact positions,2 used for the relays coil ,3 for the centre moving contact arms and the last 6 for the Normally open and Normally closed contacts that are switched by the centre arms. Picture 1 of a covered relay base is showing the 11 pin contacts that push into the relay socket on the main panel,To make sure the relay can only be inserted into the base on the main panel the correct way, a key guide pin fitted to the centre of the relay corresponding with the same on the main panels relay base sockets. Pin 1 is located just to the left of the key guide,and following the pins around in a clockwork direction to pin 11.This layout is always identical so relays can be swapped and changed around without damage. Pin 2 is used for the 50Vac supply to the relay coil & pin 10 for the 0Vac to the other side of the coil. Picture 2 shows which of the centre moving contact arms are wired to pins 1,6&11 on the relay base, Applying voltage to the relay coil turns the coil centre plate into a magnet (Picture3),this will then make the top plate pull down and stick to the coil centre plate as long as the voltage is maintained at the coil.This action will move or 'switch' the centre contact arms from a connection made with the top set of contacts to the bottom set of contacts.Removing the voltage to the relay coil will release the plate and a return spring fitted to the back of the coil assembly will ensure the centre contact arms 'switch' back from the bottom set of contacts to the top set of contacts. Picture 4 shows the relays centre moving contacts arms removed for cleaning,Just remove the return spring from the back and the centre contacts can be lifted free of the assembly and held only by their wiring, dirt or carbon build up on any relay contacts will stop them from operating.The set shown in the pic are clean and should be ok in operation. Take care when cleaning these contacts and not to bend or damage them in any way as this will cause a malfunction of the relay. All three centre contacts should be straight and level to allow them all to make contact with the three top or three bottom contacts when operated. Picture 5 Shows the top and bottom contacts and relay base pin numbers they are wired to,the center moving contact arms switch between these positions when the relay coil is activated. The open relays work in an identical way with the only difference being the cover and the plug in pin section at the base,All wiring to an open relay has to be soldered direct onto the relays contacts. Relay failures will be due to (dirty,carbon build up or broken contacts most common),faulty wiring or a faulty coil. Most of the relays will run for some time without maintenance,apart from the payout relays which need a regular check as they switch 240Vac to pulse the payslides,The switching of the mains voltage makes them 'flash' across the contacts creating a build up of carbon and eventually insulates those contacts preventing them from working. Early electros that operated all components on mains 240V would need all relays and switches checked regulary and replaced.

The main Control panel, This would be the MPU in todays machine. To identify Cam timers,Relay and cam switch positions is crucial to fault finding on this panel. Faults ranging from a timer motor/gearbox jamming/failure to a single set of contacts on a relay or just one cam switch can disable the game completely. Identifying which component is at fault can take some time unless you know where to look,This is where the panel layout card (usually stuck to the inside back door)is a helpfull guide(In pic 1). This maps out the positions of all the panel components,Consisting of 4 main control timers,The Nudge/Hold selector unit,the Variator/Feature hold selector unit,38 Cam switches,26 covered Relays and 5 open relays located under the panel chassis (Pics2,3 and 4). There is however 1 more timer, the Countdown timer (Pic5) mounted on the side of the cabinet only due to lack of space left on the Control panel. Note the cam positions attached to each of the timers are shown on the diagram as eg :- On the Control timer 12------------------1.this means that cam switches 1-12 are fitted on and controlled by this timer.the first cam switch in this example cam switch 1 will always be fitted nearest the motor end.This will be the same for all timers, the lowest cam switch number will be found at the motor end of the timer.Another example :- the Nudge timer controls cam switches 22 to 27,so cam switch 22 will be found at the motor end of the Nudge timer. Athough some Timer positions on the Main Control panel may vary in different cabinet models(Club machines especially requiring more components).The main Control timer and Win timer are always situated in the same place on all control panels.Relays will also vary positions between the different games.