Leaderboard

I've now completed and ready to send to the printers the first 3 volumes of fruit machine flyers. These will be printed to the same high quality with gloss.paper and laminated cover as the video games and fruit machine flyes. I was particularly keen to do these because unlike video games and pinballs where there's loads of books available.there's absolutely nothing printed for fruit machines. I've collated the flyers into volumes by year and jackpot value as follows: Era Jackpot Pages 1978-1986 £1-£3 328 1987-1989 £4 384 1990-1995 £4.80, £5 384 Also, unlike the video game and pinball flyers although there are a large number of flyers included, the compilations are by no means comprehensive but do include a significant number of machines. I plan to do further volumes to cover machines up to mid 2010s when they all became digital but this won't be until sometime next year. I've attached some example pages from each of the volumes. Ignore the grey backgrounds as this is just where I took pictures on the computer. I'll be placing an order with the printers in a couple of weeks time, so please let me know if you would like any of these. It’s highly unlikely I will do another print run so it's now or never I'm afraid. Each volume will be £25 each and postage £6.50 which will cover all 3. Payment as usual by PayPal, robotgreg@yahoo.com, friends and family. I also have a small number left of the video game and pinball flyer books but do not have all volumes. I can combine postage subject to being less than 10 Kg, So do let me know if you are interested in any of these or if you have any questions on the Fruit Machine Flyer books..

I have a new purchase arriving on Friday; The Penny Tumble. I've not seen one, but from the hazy photos it looks like a BFM console 3-ALIKE, with the later Action Line polished aluminium window frame superimposed. It's on sixpence play, but bizarrely, the front glass contains an unusual 'feature'. It forms an add-on 'dropcase' game, and inserting a penny at the top gives the player a chance to win a free play on the bandit! I can't wait to get on with this. It could be the 'missing link' between the Brewery-themed console machines, and the well-known New Penny arcade machine 'Action Line'. It MAY still have the Half-Crown acceptor, with tandem coin-switches for 1x play and 4x 6d. change!

Hi guys,I've decided to build myself another conveyor,I'm currently searching for the bits and have some already.i made 5 in 2010 but rarely come up for sale.this is scratch built Inc cabinet and even make my own payout mech.so who is interested in a thread following the build of this.

Originally from 1942,mine is smaller.I made 5 of these in 2010 as in pic.i will update as proceed,you can see the parts I have got so far and wood collected today to start playfield and surround.hope you find this interesting.

Druid now dumped and uploaded on DIF. https://www.desertislandfruits.com/forum/index.php?/topic/18144-mpu3-rom-dumps-druid-5p-£150-big-game-291fl-lucky-strike-101/

I was watching that Penny Tumble and pleased it's going to a good home Colin. Yes much like Action Line with similar inner workings and like you say has that 1d old penny drop. The best part is it's still original and not been converted like most of the models from that era so, It has it's 6d or sixpence (2.5p) play mech plus it should still have it's Half Crown (two shillings and sixpence) or 12.5p in todays money coin mech. Bell Fruit built a version of Penny Tumble for Ansells brewery. I'm still on the lookout for an original Action Line which was also on 6d play, not the later converted 1p version

Just an update - it was the volume pot

Evening all 😄 well for the last week I have finally got around to building a line up from an clubber which I had put away some time ago,, here are just a few pictures

OK, then next thing would probably be the sensor inputs. Check out the inputs to IC5 pins 10 - 14. I think they should be HIGH until the lamp hits the sensor when they should go LOW. Reel B should be pin 4 on the green plug which is pin 11 (PB1) on IC5.

Should have checked here first really. Danno asked something similar :- https://www.fruitemu.co.uk/ib/topic/16636-eeprom/#comment-265702 I actually replied to it. Doh! Still there was no definitive answer so the hunt goes on.

BU1 is pin 1 on the blue plug. The transistors are divided into LE (lamp enable) and LD (lamp driver). LE switches to ground and LD switches to 34v. So LE transistors are on pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 13 & 14. LD transistors are on pins 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 & 15. One other note on the diagram which I must admit I'd forgotten about says ...... 'Due to the overload sensing circuit, if a lamp or lamp holder goes short circuit none of the lamps in that row will light.' Hope that's useful.

Hiya Generation I had a similar problem with my EWS and it turned out to be a faulty pot changed this and it solved my sound problems 😉 worth a shot

we have now thanks to @fruitsnappa and @slotsmagic sounds within this layout The Woolpack £10 Dx.zip

Back up and running

Thanks ,,, On with the next one now ,, A/L it’s always great to see them spring back into life after many years just left,

This sounds brilliant and Very tempting all 3 volumes would be a really nice Christmas present to myself for being good this year 😁

None of the wiring is damaged on top of the transformer? Years of case humming/vibrating can take its toll if any of the output wires are touching case. Sometimes I hit the case with a hammer, sometimes put something on top of the PSU to kill the hum. Have you metered your PSU output pins to measure what it's putting out? You might get a few clues. For example if the voltages are low, if they are totally missing. Or with the power off if anything is shorted. I wish I could help more... I hate these power supplies. I've always had and abundance but I think I have about 5 broken ones now, to repair at some point. I've never really got my teeth into them yet. The only other thing I can tell you is with the dim reel lamps... they are driven off the reel board not the main lamp board. It's probably not a problem but my instincts are telling me to make sure there's nothing visibly buggered on the lamp board additionally.

There is a ztx450 transistor adjacent to the sound chip(it’s under the ribbon cable in the above picture) that is a possible cause of sound issues.

so sorry i meant put T56 in first and see, no idea why i typed the other one! T56 NPN put that in

As per my earlier post I just use a BC327 for the PNP's (ZTX500) and BC337 for the NPN's. They are really only general purpose so almost anything will do. The other mod uses a BC328 (PNP) but both are fine.

Hi people I'm looking for some faulty Epoch boards... light damage only. Also A Proconn plus or a pc92-working or light damage faulty. Virgin untouched boards prefered and nothing that's been in vinegar, piss or the dishwasher. Pm me if anyone has anything forsale. Thanks 😎

All the different vector layers needed for just that! This took me weeks!!!! and of course s much better than the .jpg screenshots below I redrew everything as per the original. original scan was a proper professional colour matched scanner as I wanted the colours to be identical As for fruit machines, was very pleased with this result using the same process

i have old barcrest fruite machines. noordstar and a supermatch. i love the mpu3 tech, and repair them . im active on other forms to. greeds ,NorthStar

Still getting materials and tooling.its a scratch build so quite involved.should hopefully start this weekend.unlike my other veneered cabinet this will have a solid oak cabinet.

This looks great, a lot of time must have gone into doing this, good stuff to all involved 👏

Looking good greg 👍

Yes old female spade connectors deffo go brittle and very often are loose.it might pay you to check all connectors bet some will just fall off with no effort.i just gently pull the wire and if feels gripped I leave it,if it loose I replace it,a lot of old spades tend to snap on turned over bit that grips the switch.

Tiny update. Bottom Door made and frame properly back in with all lamp holders back in place. Seem To have 10 mins on this a month 🙈🙈

Yes please, it sounds interesting...

Hi chaps, Here's a tricky one. All you Black Box owners are aware of the battery backed RAM board that has to be fitted for certain games to work. Well reading some documentation there used to be a chip in position IC8 socket where the fly lead for the RAM board plugs in. This was a RAM chip which has the designation 9410? In the loading diagram for the board it's listed as 9410B. I've searched the internet high and low and I can't find anything that matches. The pin out is somewhat unusual as can be seen by the power pins on the diagram below. The chip that was fitted on the RAM board was a 74C910 which has a totally different pin out. This was a 64 word x 4 bit RAM. Anyone come across this chip in their travels or even know what it's full number might be? I'm also curious as to why the original RAM chip was used as it wouldn't have had battery backup! I was thinking of perhaps using any old 2114 chip on a daughterboard just for testing purposes but I haven't a clue what pins 5(VGG) and 6(EXT) are for although from what I can make out from the diagram it's a -12v feed???.

Well T14 could be bad with just a good base emitter junction hence T15 working OK. IC3, 4 & 5 control the lamps (LE), switches & 7 seg enables via IC11. IC4 also controls the lamps (LD). I would suggest your best option to tracing this is to scope it. You'll soon see what's not being driven from wherever.

Don't forget that if your 7 seg dispaly is OK then it's possible T14 and 15 are OK. Pin 15 (yellow) is Enable 3 on the 7 seg.

Always check the blue socket pins for dry joints too!

thanks Bob, nice to know there hasn't (as yet) been a faulty one of my ram boards! If I decided to make them again I would use turned pins, the reason for the bigger type I used was cost! everyone wanted them as cheaply as possible and even then complained at the cost!

100%, ram is very troublesome as its old and also old ram technology too

It's only that I've seen RAM work with some games and not others in the sense of it clocking up 99 credits and other times £99 on payout and the shutes click like mad till it's cleared and then it lets you play on until reboot. Of course you put the RAM in my tester and it says it's fine but you know it isn't. Replacement is the only solid test. At least if you've got it running you can test all the other functions. I assume you have put it through it's self test?

Things to look out for when trying a multitude of games. As you probably know all the switch settings can vary wildly between games. One which can cause no end of confusion is the alarm on power up but it takes about 30 secs before normal play will commence. The actual switch to turn it off probably varies between games. Don't you just love MPU3? Your reel fault without the alpha was showing 3 (7 seg) and I would expect hold 3 (reel C) also to show. There's loads of reasons as to why you can get a reel fault as you probably know. First port of call would be, are all the lamp sensors working? Make sure all the bulbs light up during reel spin, I'm sure they are but if not T55 (BCX38) is your main suspect if none light up. Sensors do fail of course and the best way to prove a fault on the reel deck is to swap the cables on the backboard and see if the fault goes to the other reel. Are the reels stuttering? If so possible bad red cable or dry joints on the red socket. It's a good idea to check all the sockets for dry joints and if you find any on a socket resolder the whole socket. Next thing is failing reel drive transistors (all BCX38) or failing drive chips (74LS04) and even worse failing 6821 (IC5). When you swap out D44/45 replace them with modern P600 types and not IN5408's as some folks do. I find they don't get anywhere near as hot as the old types did so lead curling isn't as important as it was. No harm in doing it though.

cool good shout on the diodes! if they have (which they should) have a circular curl in the leads make sure you do the same! and fit them away from the pcb. this is to to stop heat generated from the diode reaching the pcb causing it to burn and go dry joints, (there is a reason for everything they do lol)

glad you got it working, so most likely the green legged T62 then! no idea on your next errors, out of what I can remember area

what zener diode voltage do you have on your board? if this is faulty it wont pass voltage

Welcome Bart

In the spirit of sharing, here is the Gerber file for the MPU3 program cards. Cheers Ed MPU3 V2.zip

Ordered the components kit, each board needs: 2 x 28pin wide sockets 1 x 4.7UF 25V tantalum bead 5mm 1 x 16 pin socket 1 x 20pin socket (if you want CHR chip) 1 x HD74LS138P IC Wire links Here are the boards assembled and tested with CHR less Super Line Up roms. After understanding the link settings, they all worked perfectly.