Leaderboard

slack day at work so got to work on it.Side pannels removed and painted,button pannel stripped and sprayed.Reels and buttons cleaned and re bulbed.Inside cabinet cleaned.So hopefully will re assemble tomorrow and get new locks.Cleaned glass aswell.

when I first joined, I came up with batteryless ram modules to go in place of the ram on boards, the reception to it was great! there was the doubters about how can the ram be cleared if it corrupts, but there are way around that quite easily, I developed and made the modules, made 25 of each of the 2 types which covered most boards! BUT the price was £20 against a £5 varta battery! I think I ended up giving more of them away to test than the 2 or 3 I actually sold! cheaper Varta wins!! Then came the ' I am making of coin out of collectors' etc and eventually had enough and left. I did come back but have sold nothing of the boards or bits since them, I am very apprehensive about selling impact and sys80 because of what has happened previously but am wanting to do so to help others, It has always seemed to be people think I have good ideas but it just does not work out for one reason or another, this is why I just do bits for myself mainly. I do have some good friends I talk to regularly but I am not into fruit machines! it is the electronics that interests me!!

theses are the tvs tags

Some old RAM and ROM needed the -5v rails and I think some systems used a -5v for a switch bias...to keep the contacts clean. So might not be needed in this system. Also wondering about the 100Hz signal, this will be 120Hz in the USA lol

2 to power 2 for degauss which are probably disconnected if its come from usa

Just a thought,do these boards need a battery to boot or can they run without.Amazingly enough,the board is squeaky clean with no damage at all.Even the old battery is not showing any signs of leakage.

its not the rifas, it is the caps in the psu which start it up and keep it running, if your unlucky those psu's go bang and are landfill

Yes I know how they work, thank you. I just missed the red wire as you did initially.

nope you wont need a extra transformer if you measure and it is 110v or so on the end of the plug which goes to the monitor

yep should be good then, it is very likely the kortek will fizz, pop as the flyback transformer bites the dust, if so be bloody quick to remove power! less damage to the monitor! if your lucky it will just blow the flyback trnsformer and the transistor (transistors are getting hard to source now) so be aware it could be a good bit of moneys worth going up in smoke, it is very common especially monitors that have sat not working for years, the insulation breaks down best first to switch on without the monitor power connected and meter the 110v ac to make sure it is what we expect it to be!

switch mode covered above, look at the black wire in the psu, there will be more info on the switchmode but quite sure its just moving the black wire plus