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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/10/19 in all areas

  1. Picking this up tomorrow morning from Chichester. 4 hours away. I say this to my Mrs everyday that she's a Lucky Lady lol
    1 point
  2. Thatโ€™s looking amazing Stef, great job
    1 point
  3. Excellent job rich love it loads !
    1 point
  4. Looks the biz stef and those bands I gave you really do look like the real thing .now that the tubes work they look even better. Great sounds as had been said .a true classic
    1 point
  5. Looks & sounds fantastic
    1 point
  6. Thanks Rob, ive been very lucky with a few parts to be honest otherwise this might still be in a state of disarray. Just produced a quick vid to show the new tubes and reel bands in action I only upped this vid last night and and its already received a thumbs down from someone (obviously a non believer ) oh well cant please some folks eh lol
    1 point
  7. Glad you are enjoying the Stop The Clock mate got to fill the hole now lol
    1 point
  8. Where the batt sits the 2 pins are positive and single pin negative.Join the 2 pos pins and simply leave a length of wire about 12 inch or longer depending where you put battery.Same with neg,use red and black so its obvious which is pos.As for soldering,get sone old pcbs and practice,apply heat for as shorter time poss and keep the tip clean.A good join will be smooth and shiney a bit like mercury.A dull finish not good and like a dry join,may not conduct and will breakaway.
    1 point
  9. Looks like there are now 2 ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜‚ 20190309_170053.mp4
    1 point
  10. Fixed the psu, bypassed the power switch which is faulty
    1 point
  11. Oooooh I remember my MPU2 machine from years ago. The connectors had dry joints and had to be reflowed, and the resistors on the reel drive were burned to a crisp and had to be replaced. Chalroyce games Lucky Dice - had spotlight original bands under the games reelbands you could easily lift the conversions bands off to see them.
    1 point
  12. How do the connectors look, It does not take much corrosion in them to create all sorts of reel troubles, I have just posted in a thread where someone wants a power loom and pics of the reel connectors to the motherboard! these stopped the boards booting up hence had to be replaced! been perfect since! worth a second look at the connectors perhaps?
    1 point
  13. I had the very same fault on my old Lucky Line,which was something to do with reel 3 sensor. Always locked up when the reel finished spinning. I swapped the sensors around and the fault moved and it alarmed sooner...responding to the faulty sensor. Maybe worth trying another deck,mpu2 or mpu3. Both work exactly the same! I love Rock On. First machine that got me into playing.
    1 point
  14. OK, first thing is to make sure the red cable is making good contact. If you move the red cable do any of the reels twitch? If they do then you need to find where the bad connection is. When you say the token slot accepts the coin I assume we are just talking mechanical here ie the coin goes in but doesn't light the play lamp? If that's the case then it's not seeing the microswitch or the switch is busted? These switches are 'make to operate' unlike the user buttons so assuming these are the old type 'S' mechs you should be able to short out the microswitch to eliminate the problem. It only needs a few milliseconds of contact otherwise the alarm will go off thinking a coin is stuck. Either way you'll prove something. It's all good fun.
    1 point
  15. Had worse than that.Unless you re formica it which is not possible to get a match it can be made far less visible.
    1 point
  16. Cyber,the metal pannel that front fits in just above the rubber kick plate.Simply wire brush it then paint on smoothrite black.Looks fab,kills rust and is tough.
    1 point
  17. Anyone interested in a bit of BWB rubbish on a Saturday night lol. After 12 hour's at work
    1 point
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