Leaderboard

Hi. Most resources on the site are pay walled and require minimum posts to avoid new members joining getting what they want then never posting again. I see the manual for this particular machine is in the open forum, here And if you had used the search functionality you might even have found it on your own. Hope it is what you are looking for.

like a harp you made me laugh mate lol

Got this to join Gold Fever 😉

I Saw this on Marketplace Facebook,luckily it was local to me and the guy wanted it gone asap,had owned it 10 years in a mancave, so nabbed it for the pricey sum of £25! (Found £5 in it too!) Fully working,no battery leaks.Nice little bargain. The only downside is the glass isn't brilliant but for that price a steal!

Bargain, one sold for 80 on eBay non working and in worst condition

ive been doing boards since the 80s and still fail on some we carnt win all the time bob alls we can do is keep plodding on lol

some times bob the tracks can be so close together they are hard to do an see with our eyes theses days thats why some times i just put the wire links on the back to make it easy

I used to use wire links on the backs of boards but find replacing tracks now the way to go. Cleaning and neutralising alkaline leakage isn't difficult unless, as said it has soaked into the ply of the board.It is easier to replace tracks after a bit of practice and the rear of my boards don't look like a harp any longer..... of course, this is only my humble opinion and suits me.

Bob, a triac is roughly just like a switch which the gate is effectively the lever. It's either on or off, as far as we're concerned for this application. Doesn't matter what the voltage is coming to it, it just switches it to ground to complete the circuit. Apologies if I'm teaching grandma to suck eggs.

no they are 50v and I do have some 48v bulbs, BUT I cannot find my 50v psu so using one of the green directive ones which are 24v not 50v so the bulbs are 24v (it is about 4 or 5 years since I used the 50v psu and don't know where I put it!) I like to make sure ALL the triac outputs are connected and working, I have hears stories in the past where boards will not pay out in a 3 reel machine but put it in a clubber and it pays out fine! this is because each use different triac channels so it is pot luck it which triac channels are dead and which machines they work in! but by checking them all it proves to me they are all working and fine! it is a bit 'heath Robinson' lash up the holders but least it does the job and knocked it up with bits I had, a old bit of wood and did not take much time to make!

No Bob I don't work like that, I like to find out what is causing it and if possible come up with a fix! so I have Bobs board (no3) which fires triacs before it boots, and one of my own stock ones which is perfect, so I started by removing IC8 on both good and bad boards, this eliminates any spurious voltages coming out from the chip before bootup. powered each in turn up and measured the voltages on the base of the triac driver transistors, sure enough on bobs board there was around 1v on the base, on a good board there was nothing!! So IT IS voltage appearing on the base of the transistor turning it on firing the triac before the base is clamped at 0v when IC8 6821 PIA port is initialized! just as I suspected!! squirting the area with a bit of IPA and the voltage is then gone!! great!!! but leave it a while so it all drys back out and voltage and triac firing is back!!! Now I have had this exact same thing before in the battery rot catchment area on a different board and been told this cannot happen! the PCB cannot change properties due to battery rot damage impregnating the board but how can it be anything else but rot getting into the laminate of the board? it does not happen in any other areas, just where the battery rot area is! to me it seems these are all in very low voltage areas which take little current, transistors turn on at 0.7v with very little current on MPU4, and in PC92 it is the same in the battery rot area. spraying IPA cures it in both cases to cure for a while, but a few hours later when it dries out the faults are back! it seems the board has leakage voltage when dry but this dissipates when IPA is sprayed. just waiting now for the board to completely dry out of IPA residue from the laminate layers then I believe I have a work a round for it to cure it once and for all of the problem. but for the second time am I trying to invent a cure for a problem that does NOT exist I wonder........ I guess I am being fooled by something no one else has seen yet again!! but it is weird how this is not the first time I have seen this and the circumstances are the same, just different manufacturers boards. has to be me I guess!! I better wait for the hate posts telling me again this cannot be the case!

how would a switch fault have any bearing on the triacs activating BEFORE the board receives its reset signal at startup? please explain how you come to that statement as I don't understand how you have come to that conclusion? by the way there is no switch fault on this board now. the 74ls08 has been replaced and cured that problem.

quick vid from the front ...will need to trim a few edges yet but its there :-) IMG_1021.MOV

Transferred it onto the top mask tonight , looks pretty good to me maybe a few tweeks required but im pleased as punch The beauty of using trunking is you can fix the mask with the lid off so can place it perfectly onto the glass ..then snap the lid on afterwords wiring was all over the shop and will need tidying up 😉

They run in the real Fortune Trail