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Had a commission I couldn't refuse because it was promised previously to stopping this so don't PM me for more my printer has now packed in. Blue Moon The back-mask should be printed on clear acetate roll and applied to the rear of the reels, then snip them at intervals allowing for the curvature and shrinkage once in curved position. Affix the snipped back-mask at intervals to prevent moving in situ. The number reel band is somewhere in the other files I uploaded Blue Moon.zip

People stick allsorrs in.if it fits they think its ok.Make sure they are 1.2 watt.most use car lamps so for what it costs just fit new.Great job by the way,looks great.

Well I couldn’t leave that top. I needed to fire it up after pulling wires and buttons out. So this is how it’s going to be left today. Tube lighting still not back in, need to make a shield as light bleeds from the bulb into the hit money logo mask and looks iffy. 2p bezel is chipped and on the re spray list but needs mech out so not today. £2.00 jackpot on the digit board goes gaga and dim / bright / dim so when tubes and mechs removed I’ll pull it and solder it all again. Cabinet will need blacking where it’s had some knocks and if - IF I can ever find any paperwork or anyone can work it out (I can’t!) the take em or leave em bulb isn’t wired as Sam never worked out which cables connected to it. I’m not surprised!! 😂😂😂 Overall a well built machine from scratch, hat off to Sam for doing it, I wouldn’t have a clue and with no paperwork! Thanks to Sam for letting me have it, NudgeShuffle and Louie for helping with getting it at all and TTX for giving me a copy of ROMs for backup, Riche100 for flyer for reference. And finally Launton for making reel bands for it or it would be a very hard to play machine, I hope I can do his artwork proud on some plastic bands soon. reels and tube not fitted on pics below. On the to do list IMG_2426.MOV

Chunks so they aren't lost I will remove the first link off my google drive in a few months plusmoneyreelsFINAL.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals - 1.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals - 2.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals - 3.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals - 4.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals - 5.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals - 6.zip Reel Band Publisher Finals.zip

No it does not have a battery.just has one in the mpu4 as standard.

I've made a few reel bands/decals here and there for people but I'm packing that in, so I'm posting them all here for you to do with what you want. No instructions but you will need Microsoft Publisher to view and print these files out, also only (AFAIK) Epson printers can print the length needed (most are up to 89cm), and you may need to create new paper sizes in your printer/application settings. Some were printed on A3 before my printer died and some are on A4 (21cm) width and anyone who knows how to use DTP will be able to tweak them out. Most Printer shops can deal with these but you'll get better results at home on glossy paper on a roll. Merry Christmas. It's a 390mb zip file. Click top right 'down' arrow for that otherwise you won't get them all Download Now

Just a note on what alan had mentioned 12v/2.2 bulbs were originally used on 80s machines .left on for 12to 24 hrs a day/7 days a week in an arcade would cause discoloration of reelbands and burnt lamp masks as well as damaging the glass artwork .so they fitted 1.2 s to reduce the heat factor. Of coarse these machines arent subjected like that now in our own personal collections and so i personally dont have an issue using 2.2 w bulbs in my machine s as I prefer the brighter look .

Ive seen machines fitted with the wrong wattage 10mm bulb(used in some cars) 12v 1.2 watt is what should be fitted https://www.fruitmachinesales.co.uk/10mmlamp?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZPd0uPH4wIVSrDtCh3jKgl-EAQYBCABEgLWS_D_BwE the link above is just an example as they can be found cheaper on eBay. the higher wattage bulbs can possibly damage the mask or artwork over time. it may not be the bulbs btw it could be one of the transistors on the MPU(swap a bright bulb for a dim one and see what happens)

I'm not sure, but I think the 'flutter box' crystal was on the top right on the other version. This one we had most of the foil tickets were stuck around the edges. Still pretty novel.

Hi mate... Jpm Popeye looks great!

Got myself some 2708 pulls @matrixnetuk Rripped them (sucessfulley) but have no idea what they are (couple of unknown ones in the dat file already. 26feb rips.zip these were not labled so in the same order as unpacked. got some spare 2708 chips now Oh also got an MPS card marked NL2.1 & NL2.2 bit already in the dat.

Perfect, mate! Now they'll always be available. Many thanks for making them available to the masses. Like I said, the work you did on them is fanatstic.

I don't mind what people do with the content in whatever form, I'm expecting to see them on ebay anyway 😅🤣😂 Good work extracting the png files 👍

Has taken a long time to come this far !! This basic idea came about in 2007 when I came across an IC called a UCN5818AF. Its mentioned in robert penfolds PC INTERFACING PROJECTS book from the 90s. At the time I was using a Parallel port of a 486 laptop to control a set of MPU4 blackjack reels. It worked , sort of , but I was utilizing ULN2003s which were under rated for the current load of the motors and they heated up over time- eventually my poor breadboard melted !! Then I tried again with MPS reels , 24v power and a cheater circuit someone posted online to drive a 4 coil motor using only 2 inputs and a bunch of resistors and diodes to control the coils. Um it didnt work, I blew up the circuit, and the parallel port on the laptop. And then I moved house , and I think the breadboard , and the bits on it got thrown out. And then I had a kid so less time for experimenting anyway..... But wind the clock forward 11 years and now I have a little more time and a lot more know how and tools and test gear.. So I can experiment a bit more. I have a system80 machine tucked away which I can make use of for testing some stuff , but I also have this wonderful thing called dark basic , and PIC and AVR programmers so can DO a lot more with my programming and electronics skill. Thats all well and good but I was still intending to use the printer port .. And then I bought a velleman USB kit. And that sort of changed the game plan - it totally moved the goal posts because they provide a manual with the driver DLL and it was relatively easy to write a program to use the software in the DLL. Before you know it I had an updated version of my alpha display driver, here it is below -- Not very interesting by itself I know - its just an alpha display - I did a version for the Bellfruit BD4 display driver as well, but Im not cluttering the post up. But it got me thinking - It took mabye 4 hours to work out how to control the display using the velleman kit. (Theres other kits out there btw , but I like the velleman because its still using thru hole stuff. ) So , thinks me, what else can I drive using this little board. It only takes 3 wires to control the alpha display . Well 4, you need to provide a reference ground so that the unit under control is sharing the same supply ground as the unit providing the control - if you don't things go a little weird. Now, when I thought about it, It only took 3 lines on the parallel port to control that UCN5818 , and it provides 32 output lines from a single serial in. An idea was brewing! A sticking point back in 2007 was that I had no way to read the opto sensors. So I had to zero out the reels by hand before I ran the program . Not very good for a fully packaged machine lol. But now, with this USB board I had a set of protected inputs as well as 8 output channels. I just had to find a set of reels with 5v opto boards built in.. I had a set of BIG7 reels laying about , they had 5v opto boards , but those were 24v stepper motors. And I was NOT gonna even try and use 24v motors again with my ideas. A good friend tho provided a set of maygay motors , which are 12v but designed for the same starpoint reel assembly - the project was on! Just one note, if you ever do this for yourself the maygay motors have a pinout which is the exact reverse of the electrocoin ones. So you have to plug the motors in upside down on the plugs on the top of the opto board. I will show you at some point. It turned out opto detection with the USB board was actually pretty easy - just provide the optos 5v and ground, connect the USB board with the same ground line (for the reference ground ) and then the opto outputs give a LO signal every time a tab blocks the sensor and the on board LED comes on. To actually drive the motors, I had to work out a program to use the 5818 to drive the reels. What I came up with was actually something very similar to my 2007 design. Except done on stripboard , and with ULN2083As which can handle the current. I used heavy wire across the top of the stripboard to divert 5,12v and 0v to where I needed them and kynar wire to direct the outputs of the 5818 to 4 inputs each of the driver ICs. I actually doubled up each driver input to spread the current load further- and it , so far as I can see , works a treat! Biggest headache was getting the reels to stop where I wanted them to.... Detecting a tab is easy, but writing the program so it stops exactly on the tab and then moves a precise number of steps is hard ! But what Ive done works. It kinda uses the same principle as SRU - it adds to 3 counters and then counts round the same number of steps on each reel till they are in the right position. Sound is provided by samples in .wav or mp3 format. As you can see from the video it looks reasonable in operation. Its not playable yet , but I am still working on the program to break up just the straight demo routine and split it into attract , gameplay , gamble and nudge subroutines. Thats for another time tho, My head still hurts from sorting out how to set the reels to zero at power up and then run to position afterward!! So at the minute, I am not gonna do any more with the basic program - I am going to port it out to a shuttle PC I have, as DB makes an application when you compile the program . So long as I include any DLLs and sound files it needs in the same folder when I move it over I should be fine. There is an ATOM motherboard on ebay atm for just a few pounds so I could use that also , with a compact flash card - I have a cf to IDE board sitting in a cupboard and theres a 8GB card floating about too- so theres options out there ! What I am going to do next is focus on coin control - Im not even going to try with serial or cctalk - thats out my depth - But, I am going to use a cashflow or SR5 in parallel mode . The thing about these mechs is they work are just coin operated switches - you have a coin common line , which is one side of the switch , and then a set of coin output lines - when a coin passes through internal transistors simply connect the coin common to a coin output. Now typically coin common sits at 12v - it makes it easier to wire the loom . But in electrocoin machines they have that common line tied to ground - and the outputs pull the switch lines on the MPU to ground instead of passing 12v down to the MPU via zeners to result in a 5v input signal. So I got to thinking , what if I connect coin common to one side of a keyboard line , and a coin output to the other??? I have a coin mech upstairs thats got a bad seperator but it does accept coins . It got killed when someone updated it to new £1s , as you do! So I am gonna play with that for a bit , and see what I can come up with. So thats it atm- Its actually a bit of a red neck updating this thread after soooooooo many years ! But I never ever gave up on the project , its just life gets in the way, and so it should - life and family always come first , only when you can JUSTIFY taking time for yourself do these things progress. To be continued , even if it does take another 11 years!! Hey it took Guns and Roses 12 years for their current album lol.

.......................... ROMs and snaps of Nudge Count Up courtesy of Gary NCU.zip Enjoy

Change from MPU2/3 tonight Here we have 2Up and T-S (Same roms) T-S & 2Up.zip TS was just a rom cart...