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Ello Ello Ello what have we got ere my son ...Chief Superintendent SruSulzernizer here Crimes against SRU's its off to the slammer for you 😄

Here's another small picture. Best I have.

This is turning into a nightmare for me now. Firstly,I didnt want to post this but I'm forced because things keep going wrong,so any advice or tips are gratefully appreciated here. 2 machines giving me a major headache. 1. Eastenders m1b. I actually got this running last night. I swapped the m1b board for an m1a. It wouldn't boot,but I was advised dil switch 8 on bank 2 needed to be switched on for an a to work in a b. So I did that and it booted. And I actually played it without fault and even did a video Now it doesn't work again.....why? Because I took the psu out to try in my Donkey kong as that one keeps popping on and off when I turn it on! So I put that psu back in Eastenders and now it makes a loud noise and all the lights are stuck on like something has gone open/short circuit. I have 3 psus,1 that dont work,1 that pops on n off and now this one that makes a loud noise. 2 Donkey Kong. It started popping on and off... Initially I thought it was the psu. So I swapped it,but it still kept popping. Then I put a spare m1a board in that was out of a working machine. It booted but the alpha display shows Contact Maygay. This machine is fitted with a dongle and was advised to reseat this,but it still does this. So I tried another prom card which made no difference . So it looks like I have 3 psu's and 4 boards that need attention. Mick has kindly offered to look at my boards. Top man! Just need someone who knows how to fix m1 psu's. All fuses check out ok. Any offers of help are greatly appreciated and I am more than willing to fund the repairs to anyone who can help me with this. Great machines,shame about the tech! Thanks in advance

ive played one in penzance last year on the seafront .. sure i played another somewhere else too so they are still about maybe some in private collections too

is it from a hotpoint washing machine ?

i just wont to see the two tracks under it

That might be easier lol

Thanks guys Think I'll get the soldering iron out and take the battery off, then wait for new battery and contact cleaner to arrive and see where I'm at then. Itching to try it lol

It's difficult one it looks like it could be rotten in there I don't know though some boards look like a little like that where it covers the vias (holes) It's pretty hard to pinpoint the fault without a multimeter and testing it out mate. Epochs are exceptionally difficult to fix but because it's light if any damage... it might (might!) Be fixableI would offer to look at it... I've got a stack of boards to do for mates so someone else might look. If not I can have a look in a few weeks.

can you remove the battery

was going to use creasote but the bastards banned it! Loved that smell

Don't forget wd40 is actually conductive when it leaves the can, my advice is don't use WD40 on anything but undoing rusted bolts, squeeky hinges and spray it on to protect steel gardening tools like blades in the lawn mower and garden sheers to stop them going rusty over the winter

contact maygay with the correct dongle and dips set usually means the rs232 port on the board is duff, after all how many of you actually test to see if that is working on a board when you buy it? that's the beauty of using a PROPER maygay FTU unit, it tests everything! yup move a good psu to another machine and it no longer boots a M1(ab), yup this CAN happen absolutely! Did see that when I worked in a arcade, but I just repaired them as I went along. Was never sure why it happened, could be as your putting the connector on its briefly one pin out spikes out the psu, or maybe the power supply is a bit old and week and just bites the dust with a slightly more load on it which tips it over the edge. MPS1 is particularly bad for blowing a small fuse in the psu when the board bites the dust preventing it from booting.

Well psu in them have had new caps,one had a regulator and all power connectors renewed using correct crimp tool on soldered wires

Just don't breathe in too much mate.

I'm not too sure 3 faulty boards all at once very rare

It’s possible, moving the machine might upset wires, crack bad solder joints, etc but probably quite rare. I had a odd fault on a epoch mpu before it would boot unless you bashed the wood beside it or violently shaked the machine.. very odd I know. That mpu is now deceased lol edit: to be fair the mpu was very badly damaged

It is massively different! Don't use the normal one it is a water displacing pernetraiting oil that cleans and lubricates... it's the common by brand name only. The green one is a specialist electrical contact cleaning solvent it's nicely active in terms of breaking down green alkaline or any other deposit. It evaporates rapidly. It's slightly more attacking than IPA but doesn't harm boards or components... perfect for round the pins on Epoch boards The orange one is a degreaser which I use aswell for removing flux residue you have to clean it off after though as it sits on the boards.

No scorch or burn marks anywhere on the psu to board plugs. The problem with Maygay tech is it works opposite way around to everything else with the board telling the psu to boot up rather than the other way round which is the norm!

Yes I still think it's a reliable tech it depends how long he has them on for at a time as if he has on for more than a few hours each time its bound to start causing problems I have mine on for 30 minutes at a time and I never get problems Yes I would reccomend checking plugs for burnt crimps too as they do like to burn out

Can you describe if the security light is flashing or is it steady on. Can you also post a picture of the battery as Darren says. Also a pic of the small square processor near the battery with H8 written on it. I would try some electrical contact cleaner and spray around that area... but don't scrub anything yet until we've seen pictures of it. I use WD40green contact cleaner. It will break down any alkaline material that's effecting the Cpu and neutralise any areas you can't see. 3 or 4 good blasts. Hopefully it's light battery damage and we've just got it in time

Does this help you Ben ?

So what about ace.i have a warlord machine from 1981 when e/m was going mpu tech.and this is right on the border.it has 4 slide in boards and is a front opener.Also it has a large pcb mounted to the left of reel assy.

Not a great image at all but only one I've got lol

Looks like I may need to cut a new back bottom panel! If I do I may use the old one to cut a new top panel as it's bowed in the middle! Been looking at formica sheeting and I think this is a close match so may look at a sample in the flesh. What you think Nick or Stef?

Sorted!! What a relief that was, it's been driving me nuts. It was something silly in the end which I would have sussed a lot earlier if I had a reel deck. The fact was everything was working fine and with a real reel deck I would have never hit this issue. Basically because the LED's were flashing on my Arduino I assumed the pulses were getting to the sensor inputs. What I didn't check was that the inputs were being permanently held down so the software must have thought the reels were stuck and wouldn't continue. No error messages or alarms though? This also explained why the door switch didn't do anything. When switched on with both door switch and test switch it obviously didn't care about the reels and booted fully which is why the door switch was then able to reset the machine. This wasn't the whole story though.... Once I sorted the state of the outputs to the sensor it still didn't work but I wondered whether the pulse widths were too narrow. Slowing down the Arduino a tad and everything burst into life. Again thanks to all who made suggestions, even if it was to jump in the Thames.

Most the time it just sits on initialising 06