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Also fellas Ben Moore is 16 so anything he's doing with electronics or fruity engineering should be encouraged. There's no way I could do any of this at that age. I've seen him getting shit off grown blokes a few times on here. We can all be grumpy f@%s but I think the younger members of the mecca should get a bit of a break... in a good way 😎

Picked this up a couple of weeks ago not working with broken belly glass, machine had been in a storage container for seven years and was filthy inside. When I got a chance to look at it the board and ROM was knackered as expected. Thanks to fruitsnappa and midibob for Sorting ROM out, Ron for mech, Jpm Stu for glass and Buncy for texting me whilst I was seriously hung over that it was up for grabs only about 45 mins from my house. I took everything out of the be cab gave it all a good clean (even the tokens) and put back together tonight and all working perfectly. Cheers all Dazza

I hope his repairs are better than his spelling.

since you ask, myself I use either these, Or if the circuit allows these in place of the ram The chips above are better as retain the data for around 100 years with no battery. left is for mpu4, pc92, scorp2, and others, right is for M1a/b, (electrocoin as well if i remember correctly) and others

Here's Bell Fruit's Rose & Crown, a nice simple lo-tec machine that was probably designed for bingo halls and arcades. This layout is a joint effort between myself, andy-1 and hitthesix. Keyboard shortcuts in the notes section of the emulator. Thanks to Wizard for the emulator The Rom & image provider. Please use MFME V19.6 or later to play Enjoy. Rose & Crown.zip

Just made a start on this classic JPM Thanks to Amot for uploading the roms

Hi mate, I will be leaving it until I get it to my workshop. I want the glass out on my big bench rather than try it at home.

Check the diodes are ok

Doubt it,just dont pay if you are not happy.Simples

well its win win, just charge £40 for noting and say it can't be done! wish I could do that with boards! lol

If you have removed the capacitors chances are you pulled the through hole copper out of the holes to so they no longer make connection from the top of the board to the bottom, caps rarely need changing in M1, Its usually the bridge rectifier that starts to fail rather than the caps, I bet if you measure the removed caps capacitance they will be fine

Brilliant, many thanks...

1 on, 2 off, 3 off, 4 on

ANY rechargeable battery's vent vapours which do the damage, so really the best way is to get away from them IMO

possibly I could do them again, seems a lot has happened with board costs in 7 years as possibly may now be seen as a worthwhile thing with even broken M1 boards going for a lot these days let alone good working ones! This was the idea to future proof the boards for longevity but the £5 varta battery won back then!

Ok cr2032 coincells are no good for M1a as they got the circuit completely wrong and they just drain the battery quickly!! Usually well within a month!! The m1a boards can be modified to work perfectly with coin cells for a long long time which I have done so in the past! As I have said they didn’t always get thing right did maygay!! M1b are fine, they corrected there mistakes but the ram current does need to be checked as the ram is old and has either detorated over the years or has been affected by battery vapours and draws more current, so if your going down the coincell route a ram change for a modern low standby current one would be beneficial!!

I used to own one but we're talking 25 years ago, long before emulation had been thought about.

No mate I might have said not to use non rechargeable coin cells. It's more important to look at stuff like the appropriate voltages and think about what you want when choosing a battery

I never said that mate you must have miss understood. I said I prefer using varta batteries myself just as a personal preference. They are exactly what was intended hold their charge and they've got pins fitted so simple to fly wire them away. I have them on 1000mm fly wires and they're heat shrinked in safe spots in the cabs. Im not an authority on which batteries to use though. That's not to say anyone else's choices are wrong if you want coin cells fit them that's cool too. We're all in agreement to desolder the originals that's the main thing. Side note Andy if your selling any 100 year M1b ram I'll buy a few. 😎

Great stuff

Looks good, another Project I remember well from my Uni days..... Well, those days spent in the pubs.

I guess if "Matty" said to use Varta batteries on Epoch & M1 then we are good to go. 😁

Looks good and some nice other machines you have.

Excellent job, looks great.

Cracking job, looks in very good condition, good to see a full refurb 👍

Very nice Dazza. Used to love playing this one back in the day. Would love to see a video when it's in a happy mood.

Cheers, a bit of white wine vinegar and baking soda in a bowl works a treat.

Is it really the manufactures fault if the operators never changed the batteries as the recommended times? its like blaming the manufacturers because your car didn't last long and seized up as YOU never ever changed the oil at all!

manufacturers did not think of that when makeing a machine and back in the day a machine was lucky to last a couple of years befor it was striped if lucky for parts .. 99% of the time by two years out in the field it had made its money and a skip called out !!!! Us guy who injoy machines from back in the day from lad to man only call out now to late ... Manufacture only think of money nothing eles.

I just love these old games, That's an amazing collection of games.

So what would you use then ?

Soy sauce lol Nah predictive text lol

who the hell is amoy

Hi folks. I finished my board and switched on the power but zero leds came on... Seems like there's no power. I've heard about the mpu switching on the psu? Just seeking some advice slightly confused as I don't know the tech to well.