Leaderboard

It's fucking aweful 😂. I had one many moons ago. Poor poor poor programming. Those games just drop the jp straight in. Don't even give you a bit of adventure. Bugged off everywhere. Total shite. Scrapping this is the best thing that could happen!

CHR stands for chastised chip

Hi Ben I didn't say mate but I was going to send you one of my repaired Epochs in with the practice board. I've used it regular for 6months. You can have it free of charge just don't sell it on and keep handling to a minimum. It's got a battery on a lead all done too... 🙂

We're dealing with rare and treasured Mpu's... Not a plate of chips. Go easy with how hard you scrub an Epoch too as the SMD components are fragile- especially on damaged boards. It's not a complicated job though

once vinegar is used I won't go near boards treated with that, I am no fan of acid wash personally I am no chemist to work out what concentration of acid is needed to bring the PH level to neutrual or how you would go about measuring it

bet that took some balls to gamble £5 onwards back in the day :-0

A PH of 7 is neutralized

Crest, WOW that is some incredibly good information. I’ve got a couple of more specific questions but I’ll need to look at my boards when I get home. Thank you mate 💪🏽👍🏽

Also note: make sure you know the orientation of the chip, never put it in the wrong way.

Yes no problem will post a few more below in a few hours

Note: half of the card is missing on mine not really sure why lol, usually not like that

I’m 99% sure the CHR is IC8 on 1994 card, please correct me If I’m incorrect

Please could you post more pictures Ben?

Skinny card I’m not sure about, there are at least 5 revisions of the MPU4 cards photos below issue 1: dated 1983 is a mod 0/1/2 card used in ealier machines and has 1 to 3 roms, and is non sampled and has 1 pic chip which is matched to the eprom, you need to keep PIC chip safe as its essentially unreplacable issue 2 (reversion semi sample) I don’t know much about, it’s a transition card with a PIC chip and game Roms that are used in semi sampled/synth machines, early 90s for the most part Sample Program 1 - 1992 Small T has 2 security chips, 1 is matched to the rom and one is sound related, change both if you are swapping Rome over to be on the safe side. This is fully sampled sound, 2 sound roms, and 1 game Sample Program 2 - 1994 a slightly bigger T revision, with the same function of the 1992 one, backwards compatible, has 3 security chips, but only 1 rom matching (chr) Sample Program 3 - Big T and multiple security chips, features 4 security chips, up to 4 sound roms and 2 game roms, only 1 security chip is matched to the game Rom as far as I’m aware Video MPU4 - A game card with 1 or 2 roms with no security chips that plugs into the MPU4 and is connected to the video system

Will get some today Ben and whatsapp them

I have a fully working Epoch club pontoon machine I would sell all the boards inc psu for £120 plus post and skip the rest?

I was talking about the contact cleaner having the windows open. I don't want these you lads getting high or setting themselves alight so safety first...

I was just going to say this Andrew is obviously an advanced Electronic engineer... what he does is years better than Facebook myths and legends. We're all hobby people but you can still aim to do the most professional job as you personally can on your boards 👌😎

Blimey!! How much IPA are you using!! You don’t need that much!!!

If you look in my margay M1 thread you will see a board I removed all the chips, cleaned with a fiber pencil, wiped over with IPA and then it’s been stored for 4 years!!! When I dug it out after all that time you can see the copper tracks have not even tarnished let alone any further damage to them!! As long as you get back to CLEAN copper all is fine. I can instantly tell if a board has been washed with vinegar Before I got it as get a hot iron near the solder joints and that horrible smell of hot vinegar is instantly noticeable!!! So either the board has not been washed properly or no matter how much it is washed after vinegar it still remains!!! Either way if battery rot can get under chips and rot then so can vinegar acid and yes you can tell a board that’s been washed previously in vinegar on easy to get to solder joints, let alone hard to get at places under chips and in VIA’s under chips. each to there own methods!

Cool just be careful with how flammable the IPA is Ben and keep your windows open.

Don’t use IPA near soldering iron I’ll remember that for future reference (I’ve done it before) after cleaning flux

Very true mate

Defo don't use normal wd40! Or vinegar.... This is the contact cleaner I'm referring too. I like it because it penetrates underneath components. You have the board on its side and keep blasting it. It breaks down deposits. You can help it with a baby wipe but not directly on components (stripped areas) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_iuyfEbAVF8PFD Ipa (very flamable keep away from your soldering iron) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_iuyfEbAVF8PFD

Vinger is aggressive yes but can also work out good, I’m 50/50 with it. If you have a dead board I don’t see the harm using vinger if you wash of afterwards and treat with isopropyl to get rid of all traces of vinger and water edit: I only recommend using vinger on dead boards.

I second that, it can be quite easy to do

Thanks for all the input regarding the solder job i managed it in the end....have to say Ben this board is in a really bad way all the components around the battery area appear to be covered in a weird slime that has congealed its awful almost lard like ...i would highly recommend a clean up maybe go with a toothbrush and soapy water then leave in the airing cupboard for a week maybe Andrew can recommend a better method

I wouldn't bother, the vinegar will soon bugger it up, acid is worse than alkali at eating those very thin copper tracks especially once it gets under whats left of the green solder resist and the chips and chip resistors etc,.your need alkali to neutralize the acid!!!!!

Not yet mate, was thinking anout them today actually

Sorry to hear this news just now. So many great machines in the past both AWP and clubber. Very pleased to hear you have at least rescued some of it Player.

If the switches are set correctly and the software accepts the combination set, then it could be the switch strobes being incorrect because of a fault there.

Nothings missing. Those blank areas were for a dipswitch block to be fitted at production should it be required, so it could have built in percentage switches. Set the dip switches on the plug in key correctly and you should resolve it. You could double check those diodes if you've had no luck but i'm almost certain they'll be fine.

Yup, they didn't make the bin once I had seen them