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I watched it all the way through desperately hoping for a glimpse of nipple. Nothing!!!

Was there a printer involved ???

Cracking job dude,you live and learn.if you fuck up you learn 😁.nice job,makes playing it more enjoyable

Sorry miss read that you'd board swapped. Could be ic5 on the mpu bottom third in from the right LS259 chip.

waste of plastic just for a bin!! lol

Thanks for posting .very interesting

Loved this machine, always good for a few wins, and quite easily to land the jackpot (well in my experience) CTL stood for what?..can't remember now. One question..did this machine have the gold glitter bands??, like most CTL rebuilds??. Downloading it now, and thanks Frig for bringing this great machine back to life. Statto

Watching the review I am inclined to buy one also.... I have watched a few of her reviews now, very thorough and in depth.... I am more of a watcher than a listener. 🥴

I'd buy one without even watching the video!

Thanks so much for the release Frig. Made my night being able to play this again. You are quite right I enjoyed many of the CTL conversions of Jpm games. Things like Stop A Fruit, Silver Shuffle and Silver Strike. Thanks again for this release cant wait to give it a go.

ACE From 1978..

Hi Guys Thanks for the Comments @ Mavroz, I read through your threads and learnt quite a bit from you regarding MPU4... so thanks for your help already .. im sure i will have some questions for you when it comes to me burning the test eproms, fortunately i dug up my Hilo Eprom Programmer form the basement this week also there were about 20 brand new 2764 roms that were still sealed in the RS packets from around 1997 ... the 3D printing is so easy in this day and age ... i have designed nearly everything using Tinkercad which is a free online cad package that runs in the cloud .. you dont even need to install it on your PC ... im in my late 50s so i find things like this totally amazing ... i down load the STL file when finished put it in my 3D printer Slicer software to create the layers and send it to the printer ... and thats it .... a few hours later a finished product @ Shirts .. yes the 3D printing is very accurate ... the prints are accurate to 0.1mm all my prints are done using a layer height of 0.3 mm for quickness of printing so they are a bit rough around the edges ... but a high quality print uses layers that are 0.06mm which gives them a very smooth high resolution finish ... i have done a couple of hi res prints and they look fantastic .. so i guess yes you could safely print a gear of 10mm, check out https://www.thingiverse.com/ and search for "Gears 10mm" you will be able to see what other people have made, and you can also download thier STL fils and use them for your design @ warloard .... many thanks ... yes its great to have the gear ... but i am always learning i have learnt a lot from you guys ... Just finished the 1st light panel matrix .. so will post that next All the best ... Dicky

I sure did.Had some folks contact me on FB, asking for various resources, so here is the current situ....Yes, I did dump the roms, but as some know, machine was scraped due to loom rot. Far as I can remember, I did save the door as one lump, but I think the reels was too far gone, but will check for those.. Whatever remains, will be up in the loft somewhere, so will need some time on this.

The Cam Timers, Starting with the Main control timer, This would be as near to the CPU in todays machines,once activated controls the main actions of the electro game. The motor is a 50vac 50Hz and the gearbox allowing a 3 second revolution of the timer. The control timer always consists of 12 cams/switches,so this timer can easily be identified on a BF electro by not only not only the amount of switches but it was always mounted on the main panel at the front left side. The operating rotation of the cam timer is measured in degrees form 0 to 360. It is at points of degrees in the rotation that the cam switches are set to activate and de-activate operations of the machines game. Some of the older electros timers are fitted with a guide wheel attached to the end of the cam timer shaft,on this wheel the degrees are listed to assist where the timer is in its rotation and so the engineer could check the correct switch (via the diagram) was operating at the required point of the game. Timer operating cams can be made of two most common designs in the units construction,the first being in two half sized cams(red & grey) fitted together in a way to allow them to be slide adjusted to activate a cam switch for a period in 0 to 360 degrees at anytime of the timers rotation. The cams adjustment are easily altered, with pressure they can be rotated around the central shaft,so WARNING when cleaning the position can be altered and this action result in a devastating effect on the machines game operation. The second design of cam is just a single unit which is usually cut out in notches around its outer edge allowing a switch to be activated in a 'pulse' type action. Picture 1 shows the twelve cams on the main timer using just the one type of adjusting cams. Picture 2 shows a timer using both types of cam, the adjustable and the 'pulse' type. Picture 3 shows the underside of the cam timer and the cam switches in their seated position,I have shown this dirt covered timer as it hi-lights the edges of the adjustable cams so you can see the gaps are of different sizes which in turn means that while some switches are only activated for a short time (the smaller the gap) others are activated for longer periods(the bigger gap) of the cam timers rotation. BUT,As both the Normally open and Normally closed tabs on the switches can be used the reverse operation can be acheived,so the gap when reached then becomes the de-activating period for the switch. The switch is pressed by the outer edge of the rotating cam and allowed to open when the gap in the cam is reached. A cams operation. Take for example the cams operating the reel solenoids,Cam switches 4,5&6 control these actions. After the game has started the reel solenoids need to be lifted to allow the reels to spin so,At 24 degrees of the timers rotation the gaps on cams 4,5& 6 are set to open those three cam switches and because all three are set to the same 24 degrees the three switches activate and lift the three reel solenoids at the same time. Now the reels dont all stop together and are required to stop an a 1,2,3 sequence so setting all the cams to achieve this is also required. Cam switch 4 set to deactivate or close gap on cam at 180 degrees of the control timers rotation. Cam switch 5 set to deactivate at 220 degrees. Cam switch 6 set to deactivate at 250 degrees. This action results in the reels stopping in the 1,2 and 3 sequence. Now to add reel 4 the nudge countdown reel. Reel 4 solenoid does not lift the same time as the other 3 reels thats because its controlling cam switch 12(not 7 as you would think) is not set to activate until the timer reaches 140 degrees giving this delayed action from the reels starting and then the countdown reel starting. Reel 4 is also set to deactivate at 250 degrees the same time as reel 3 so the result in stopping sequence is, reels 1,2,then3&4 together.

The main Control panel, This would be the MPU in todays machine. To identify Cam timers,Relay and cam switch positions is crucial to fault finding on this panel. Faults ranging from a timer motor/gearbox jamming/failure to a single set of contacts on a relay or just one cam switch can disable the game completely. Identifying which component is at fault can take some time unless you know where to look,This is where the panel layout card (usually stuck to the inside back door)is a helpfull guide(In pic 1). This maps out the positions of all the panel components,Consisting of 4 main control timers,The Nudge/Hold selector unit,the Variator/Feature hold selector unit,38 Cam switches,26 covered Relays and 5 open relays located under the panel chassis (Pics2,3 and 4). There is however 1 more timer, the Countdown timer (Pic5) mounted on the side of the cabinet only due to lack of space left on the Control panel. Note the cam positions attached to each of the timers are shown on the diagram as eg :- On the Control timer 12------------------1.this means that cam switches 1-12 are fitted on and controlled by this timer.the first cam switch in this example cam switch 1 will always be fitted nearest the motor end.This will be the same for all timers, the lowest cam switch number will be found at the motor end of the timer.Another example :- the Nudge timer controls cam switches 22 to 27,so cam switch 22 will be found at the motor end of the Nudge timer. Athough some Timer positions on the Main Control panel may vary in different cabinet models(Club machines especially requiring more components).The main Control timer and Win timer are always situated in the same place on all control panels.Relays will also vary positions between the different games.