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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/20 in all areas

  1. Just ripped these. Don't think they are in the rom DAT. Think Gary said they are 20P play and all wins doubled (probs not JP) so checking out which port to switch to 10P play. 20p sru shuffle.zip
    2 points
  2. Thanks Andrew, yes I did, scope'd it and everything just in case and it was blameless. Well, switched on this morning and .....nothing!! I felt great though. So with the fresh head I went for the vias. Got round to the data links between the CPU and the buffer and the one from pin 12 (74LS245) was open circuit. I could swear I'd checked these previously and they were good (meter'd, scope'd and logic tester). Under the microscope I could see a a corrosion black spot right next to the pin hole. Looking at the solder joints it didn't look like one of mine so I suspect somebody else must have changed the chip before. A quick tac wire and bingo, solid as a rock. Phew.
    2 points
  3. I've been working on 12K CPU which has been driving me nuts. The fault was no boot and I had done it before some time ago. On the test rig it was indeed no boot and during the process of testing the test rig started to play up and wouldn't run properly. 3 days later the test rig would only run the switch test and nothing else, the I/O card looked like it was playing up too so it became impossible to test the faulty card. Eventually I found the CPU had gone bad in the test rig, been running fine for ages so I didn't supect it. At least now I had a stable platform to test the faulty CPU card. Most of the time it wouldn't boot and just sat there with two address lines stopped? All the buffer chips had been changed from the previous repair so I knew they were good. From there I proved that the RAM and CPU were OK. As it still wouldn't boot all I could do was to take out all the soldered chips and replace them. Once I'd done this it burst into life. Next thing was to put the old ones back in one by one. You're probably way ahead of me here and of course with all the original chips back in it still ran fine. Flexing the board made no difference and I did it quite a few times but it stayed running. Tried it just once more and it died!! A power reset started it up again and it ran fine. I had previously tap'd out all the connections, data, address and links to the connector and all was good. There must be a corroded via somewhere but finding it will be a nightmare. Sometimes you have to make a judgement whether it's worth chasing these faults as the time involved is horrendous. I'll see what it's like in the morning after a good nights sleep (me and the board).
    2 points
  4. Ah sorry mate, the machine originally had the cashflow 126 without a router plug and (what i now know) the coins filled in wrong tubes. I wanted it upgraded to accept new pound coins so sent it off for a replacement. The mech that came back was exactly the same as the one i sent except it now takes all coins. Have been chatting to a guy called Ron on here who reckons those machines would have come with a MARS mech and he is going to see if he can supply me one and make up a routing plug👍
    1 point
  5. Cheers! Many thanks, what I have done is move to adobe illustrator CS5 as was told on the pinball site photoshop is not a true vector tool! Where as illustrator is!! So have started again using that, it turns out the masks created in illustrator are transparent and as the background image is only there to trace over and then be deleted it doesn’t really need to have a transparent background!! So win win!! big learning curve with illustrator, nothing works as you think it should and there seems always some step Somewhere needs to be done before you can do the move you want to! But all good!! Once I get one small decal done with learning the rest should be quicker as will know what I am doing! Also illustrator is good as the printing place likes .AI illustrator files!! thanks Andrew
    1 point
  6. you have checked the clock works and not works sometimes and not other times, as I have had that fault and it was not easy to fix, everything in the oscillator circuit was changed and it still did it!!
    1 point
  7. Hey Matty, if you go down the reel lubrication route I was given some advice many moons ago that if you peel the label off the motor you can spray some lube directly into the reel motor, leave it on its side overnight to give it a chance to get thoroughly into all the parts of the mech, instead of completely dismantling the motor itself I have done this and it made a difference you will of course have to re-glue the sticker back on or in my case i placed a new piece of electrical tape over the aperture.
    1 point
  8. try asking on pennymachines.co.uk , i remember someone i knew had a old alfred cromptons pusher and although cromptons is still running its a different company and they have ditched all the old info etc as they do . but you might be able to get hold of a old techy who remembers such a machine .. also you could try les codd who works at dingles heritage fairground i am sure there is someone to advise you. doesnt look a complicated machine so once explained youll be tickerty boo (you could even ask the fella you brought it off for some pointers)
    1 point
  9. Ahh Credit Pay-out, found it finally. Due to Dutch regulation till year 1989 the machines aren't allowed to pay-out themselves. My certificate indeed certified till jan 1989, after that year the machines are allowed to pay-out. That's why that hidden push-button at the top cabinet, it resets the credits,and 12V meters New Rom-set had to be placed and a metal plate to be removed from the coin-tubes. Info in Dutch to be found here May-Be I will try the Razzle Dazzle V1.0B Rom set, perhaps it will work.The m3razdazd.zip to be found MFME V3.0 emulator. My Blue certificate. I removed the numbers for privacy reasons.
    1 point
  10. hi all, been up to my storage to move things around to fit yet another machine in were picking up in the week trivial pursuit this is what i have so far they dont have boards in i have 2 working boards for 2 of them i have another working one coming soon and 3 sent off for repair which are going to be awhile , but these are hopefully going in our new house with games room one day and of course the 2 i have at home now what do we think? and no i won't be using ahammer
    1 point
  11. Hi was I just wondering if anyone can help I have barcrest royal exchange mpu3 and it just went off found that the 7.5 amp fuse had blown in the power supply changed the fuse just blew straight away no smoke or smell coming from the mpu etc I'm reluctant to try the board or Power supply in my razzle dazzle in case it damages that machine any idea what I should be looking at thank you
    0 points
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