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Next up from Matty L's collection of clubbers is this big brother of pounds of the baskervilles, 'The Baker Street' club Thanks goto Matty L for yet again supplying ALL resources in this layout from the roms to the actual countless images of his machine which he's currently restoring to it's former glory. for the various reel symbols i didn't have i'e the orange and jackpot symbol in particular and dog icon there's a few more i'm getting from him in due course Shortcuts are written within the notes Play this in Mfme v20.1 Enjoy and Happy Gaming!!! Club The Baker Street 30p £250 Dx.zip

Thanks for this one. It looks very good.

Absolutely no worries at all. I'll take them this weekend, if I've not been back you by Sunday, please give me a shout. I'm not so young and my memory isn't too good.

Thank you so much for that John. Following your earlier post I obviously had no idea what to to do so thought I would apply a bit of logic to the problem. I figured that the S10 mech (token) would be the easiest as I could press the microswitch that an accepted coin would trigger. I removed the mech and the machine showed 2 credits every time I pressed it. To my inexperienced brain that told me that the board was accepting signals for accepted coins. I put one of my 20p tokens through the removed mech on my bench and it passed straight through. I tried the token into the slot at the front of the machine and it wouldn't pass through. Looking inside the machine I couldn't see anything obvious so I unscrewed the plates that directed the tokens into the S10 mech. It was stuffed full of tokens, it must have jammed at some point and the coins had all backed up. Long story short, now the mech is cleared the machine works as it should. Just goes to show how simple a solution can be without having to dig deeply. The machine is in really good condition so I am going to revert it back to older coinage to keep it as original as possible. I will post a video at some point of this week. Bob, Nick and John, thanks guys, you are brilliant.

That didn't take too long, and it works too! Thanks again for the inspiration Andrew. The board with the burnt audio chip is now working fine. Luckily no collateral damage was caused. The 53v rail had b een patched out with a wire by the battery area and some stray voltage was still being picked up. I decided to isolate that part of the track to save any future possible burn ups in that area. Once isolated there was no stray voltage at all. However, putting the meter on the isolated track it was still showing 3-4 volts under bone dry conditions. No doubt in damper conditions it would probably track over! The other board with the 53v rail track burnout is not quite so straightforward. It does initialise and starts with the bleeps the first time so I'm happy the CPU is running OK and it must be reading the ROM to know how to set the audio going. Other than that it goes no further. I think this will be a lockdown job!

Ok so if theres no ground going to the inhibit pin the voltage will be "floating". In other words not properly grounded. The diagram below shows the transistor connected to the inhibit line with no groud. The orange represents the "floating" state. When the machine wants to accept a coin the transistor switches ground to the inhibit pin like below. # Go to lockout test, put onto DC, put the red probe on +12v and then the black on the lockout pin you want to test, thenwhen you press the correct button for that coin it should read 12v.

I’ve just pmd you the roms mate

I would first check if the lockouts are working. Do you have a multimeter?

Actually I didn't think of doing it on that type of board. As it's so simple it's probably worth doing it that way rather than etching and drilling my own board. I've got lots to play with too. Thanks Andrew.

That looks very much like one I knocked up back in Nov 2013! If I can do it so can you! 🤣

Had a couple of old type Procon boards in with fried PCB's. One with a burnt out audio chip and another with a burnt out 53v track (the worst)! Both boards have had all the carbon dug out and replaced with epoxy with glass fibre strands added for strength. The audio chip one needed new rivets put in on a couple of pins and the track remade where the carbonated board had been removed. The 53v track I'm doing for my own benefit as I reckon the silicon count is going to be horrendous going by Andrew's experience. Just for my own curiosity I want to see how bad it can be so next time I can say no. I'll post some more pics tomorrow of the board repair and maybe some results of testing. The other thing with these older style boards is they don't have ROM on board and need a cart. I couldn't find any info on the Mecca so here's the board. It's very simple as there's only the single ROM chip. I'll see if I can make one of these single sided for a test spare. One other thing that confused me concerning the diagram for this board was I couldn't understand whay the CPU clock didn't connect to the CPU? After tracing it out on the board I came to the conclusion that there must be a wire link on the ROM cart to conect them together which indeed there was. I'll probably upload the diagram for the cart tomorrow.