Leaderboard
-
[[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
[[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
[[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
[[Template core/front/popular/memberRow is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/21 in all areas
-
Morning all, just to be clear, my recent rant about unlicensed AWP sellers was not aimed at Legacy & pre legacy machines ( like the stuff we all collect ) its aimed solely at people selling modern machines in big numbers without an operating license, theres loads of fruit machines for sale & wanted on Facebook & theres clearly people selling them commercially without the proper licence, i have to pay Β£5k per year for our Sell, Supply , Manufacture & repair license, these guys are just flouting the law, which makes it an uneven playing field in my eyes, we dont sell much in the lines of AWP other than PX`s we take that we just flip into licenced dealers we know, we have to hold a licence for Cranes, redemption machines & the likes of that as they are all classified as gambling, im about to approach the GC to see if they will listen about making legacy & machines before that Exempt from the Gambling laws, probably on a 20-25 year rolling age ( bit like classic car tax ), i will try this through a consultant to see if we can make any headway. cheers for now, Ian10 points
-
I would say it was the time when machines changed from tokens to all cash. Removing Token or A.W.P. Amusement With Prize replacing them with category machines were the death of fruit machines as I knew them.6 points
-
I had a dig around last night, took out the control board, and used Ronβs diagrams to try and make this machine play better! Well with the easy to follow instructions and photos I put several extra wires in, and wow what a difference that has made! We have nudges and holds going on π The machine now plays so much better! Thanks for the help Ron another one working properly ππ3 points
-
There's a funny thing, I had one blow up on me yesterday. 1uF 35v tant. Get all those blue caps swapped out too as they are bound to be knackered!2 points
-
Good call Ian. If it were me,I'd consider 30 years old + lol. That's when fruity's went from being about amusement to being about gambling. So everything under Β£4.80 jackpot I'd say. Everything with smaller jp than that wouldn't be commercially viable for arcade owners tbh.2 points
-
we have these in prototype stage now, they look great , bound to be a tweak or two but im happy with them for now wanna sneak peek ?2 points
-
@Simon Sevens any chance of some nice hi res photo's of crazy fruits red and red hot roll please @innfection not me don't do disc reels but would love to update my red crazy fruits layout "again"2 points
-
Here's a bigger, updated version to an all-time classic MPU4 machine called Smash & Grab. Was looking over some of my old layouts, and decided this could do with an update. I would also like to thank Pook, for sending me a fresh flyer scan to work from. And also a few reel images as well. Like normal, this is a 1600 DX - so it is best played at that resolution. Or you can alternatively use the "Rescale" option on MFME3.2 for lower resolutions. Shortcuts for this are: Nudge Up - N Hold/Nudge - 1 Hold/Nudge - 2 Hold/Nudge - 3 Save It - S Collect - C Start - Space Smash Or Grab - G Trade/Exchange - T Cancel - ` Autonudge - A 20p Insert - 9 Β£1 Insert - 0 The layout is attached to the thread. Or, you can get the layout from here: http://www.fruit-emu.com/forums/down...o=file&id=2576 Enjoy. Smash & Grab 1600 DX.zip1 point
-
My word Bob it sounds like they have given you the run around!! Who on earth would buy a board like that and also another potentially in the same way....um1 point
-
Great determination and so good to see you working around these faults and winning over .cant wait for the next instalment !1 point
-
I've got 3 MPU3's in at present which at first inspection didn't look to bad. Two of them though have been absolute horrors. This one has taken the best part of two days to get going and has had me going quite a few times. The first thing was the power regulator had the wires removed which was odd so these were reconnected. All the usual corroded bits were swapped out so then it was on to testing. Power up and a nice 5v but no sign of it booting. After a couple of minutes the 5v has dropped to about 1.5V and the regulator is running hot!! Checked for shorts and there weren't any. Switch on again and a nice 5v but a few mins later and here we go again. After disconnecting a few bits to try an isolate it I just ended up with the regulator board??? With it switched on and delivering a good 5v as soon as I touched the back of regulator transistor it shorted itself out?? I've never come across anything like that before. Anyway after a replacement was put in the 5V remained stable. That would have probably been enough for most folks but I'd hardly scratched the surface.So it still doesn't boot and after flexing the chassis up and down a couple of times the was no 5V on the board again. This time the red wire had broken and no amount of stripping it back showed any clean copper, which is normally the case. Off with the regulator board again, fit a new loom and off we go again. On power up the first check is to see if the CPU is running, which it wasn't. In with a new one and now there was activity on the address and data lines, stil no boot though it did initialise. Normally if you see a second twitch of the reels the diagnostics will show you what the fault might be by operating one of the triacs. In this case all the triacs were operated!! At some stage I discovered that the RAM chips were bad as well so it was in with my test motherboard to eliminate that one. The next chip to check was the 6840 as it's only a 28 pin device. With the chip removed it booted so it was time to move on as to why all the triacs were firing. This turned out to be IC3 (6821). With all the new IC's fitted it would now run all the diags with sound but I noticed one set of lights wasn't working and this turned out to be a BDX33 gone bad. Now the next one also had the wires removed from the regulator transistor!! Once these were connected and powered I was greeted with a big puff of smoke! C4 (1uf/35v tant)on the regulator board had gone short circuit. Once changed the 5v was good and the CPU was active. No boot though.... That's all for now folks, tune in later in the week, if I can work in the freezing cold, to see if I can sort this one.π₯Ά1 point
-
1 point
-
Was thinking the same pete .er 2k I dont think so ! Β£5-600 maybe a bit more these days .I think Mr road hog has been looking into Jimmy's estimations π1 point
-
Been busy tonight trying to get my Chance Unlimited back working again. Initially I thought it was an mpu3 board fault. I swapped out the board for my only spare and still no joy. Doing nowhere but humming! (Probably because it doesn't know the words ππ€£π ) So I have borrowed the board put of my Fortune Numbers. Anyway,onward and forward,I checked all the plug connections going over the pins and spraying contact cleaner into each plug......Still nothing! Then it was a check of the 3 fuses with the multi-meter. All checked out fine there. So,onto the fuse holders which looked fine tbh. The top fuse for the boot up seemed a touch loose,so I replaced that,and switched it on and hey presto...life! As I wheeled it into position,I noticed none of the lamps were on? So I replaced the 34v fuse holder which did the trick. I'm hoping the original board wasn't faulty at all,as I borrowed the board out of my Fortune Numbers lol. So here is a decent length video of her in action for you all.1 point
-
No problem Mike, The timer shown is wired to minimum so really that is the least you want to have wired but I start generously with more studs than shown connected and if too much payout then reduce to the level that suits you. Electro's holds and nudges are the feature of their games and they need them working well to return great game play.1 point
-
That blue/black wire should be to one side of the 50p lockout coil, check that it still has a 10p tube switch to operate the coil too. Hold nudge timer butchered as usual for the minimum % control on electro's The centre green wire is the 50v input circuit wire and connects to the inner ring of the board. The White/Orange should be the output wire to the holds and wired and linked to random studs down the right hand side of board. The White/Brown should be the output wire to the nudges and wired and linked to random studs down the left hand side of the board The board studs and two wiper arms will most probably need cleaning for best contact. The Super Start relies on not only the position of certain relays and cam switches but a good amount of hold studs wired, because hardly any are wired now will be the reason of little or no Super Starts. Here Pictured is a board from a hold nudge timer and you can see how the links have been wired on this board and this is minimal. Yellow arrowed is the 50v input to the solid centre ring. The Blue arrowed are the hold output to the hold relay, this setup has three links together near the top and one further down the right side. The Red arrowed are the nudge output to the nudge relay, this has one wired stud near the top and two linked further down the left side. At the start of the game the hold/nudge timer motor will stop start just the one time and in a millisecond at the same time to put a circuit through the timers centre ring. If the rotating wipers have stopped at that time on a live hold stud then the hold relays are activated, If they stop on a live Nudge stud then nudge relay activated. All the none wired studs are dead so when wipers stop on dead stud then no hold or nudges selected. Operators by removing the links from live studs decreased the odds of holds and nudges to virtually none and the results of their work is seen on this Two step today. So, For every wired stud becomes live and increases the chance of either hold or nudges. This timer has been link wired direct to the stud solder joints but like most timers easier to wire around the Orange arrowed outside contacts Do not however mix the wiring between the holds and nudges.1 point
-
Update latest Eachway Shuffle original JPM All boards , CPU chip , reeldeck, digital display and Cabinet same number DN 32643 18th May 1981 cheers1 point
-
As I'm doing this I'm going to make an electronic booklet for reference. 1st up is the control panel diagram. Control Unit.pdf1 point
-
Sorry for starting a new thread (Can not find the one, where we send all roms discovered), however following hot on the heels of Maygay's Omega, my source has also sent the sounds for Red Hot Ibiza (Bellfruit). So here are the sounds, and all the game ROM's I have here. Red Hot Ibiza (Bellfruit) [Rom].zip1 point
-
well smash & grab dont start with bat - those arent the right roms. probably from a similar machine to get the 4poind jackpot sag34.bin.zip1 point