Leaderboard

The reel drive shaft is very rusted and will take some cleaning, The cut outs along the shaft are for locating the locking studs on the clutch collars. The reel motor as expected the grease in the gearbox is just in solid lumps but first inspection shows no damage to the drive shafts and cogs but even those have rust. Finally stripped to most of it's major component parts but plenty to do.

Just started this project of stripping and restoring an electro reel mech from an AL Games Lucky Nudge machine. Much like a Super Nudge Gambler with a nudge count down reel but added gamble features. The mech is modified to run with early Barcrest MPU tech with the addition of one of AL's own electro mechanical reel interfaces so it now has MPU I/O plug fittings but the rest is all electro reel stop solenoids, wipers/studs and belt drive reel motor.

Just got home with this little gem, it wants a little tlc ..

The nightmares continue... Just finished a board that after the usual corroded components had been swapped out showed up a lamp fault with some lines not working. From cold though they were all working, I also noted that once the lamps stopped so did half a bank of switches. No amount of freezer anywhere or preheating the board made any difference to the time the fault took to show? With the switch test running on the diags the bad bank would work until a couple of minutes when if a switch was operated the board would continually bleep as if the switch was being operated on and off. Shortly after it would just stop and the whole bank was then dead. The other bank worked just fine?? Eventually I noticed that IC4 (6821) was losing an o/p which feeds to IC11 (74LS138) which controls the mux pulses for the lamps and switches. From cold it was there but then it would go intermittent and then stop. No amount of freezer on IC4 made any difference, nor did heating it up before switch on. So, in with a replacement and bingo all switches remain operational. Ready to wrap up when I noticed there was still one line of lamps out. IC11 had a bad o/p. Once changed all was good. Phew!!

I was told he was a male whore

I have a blade tool here to help straighten and adjust wipers but, Any worn out or broken wipers I can replace as I have some old sets here still with plenty of life left in them but even those are limited now.

No, he got caught flashing numerous times. I was told his outfit involved red socks.

If you have no luck with the psu mentioned then I may have one, I will try get it tested. But let me no if all else fails and I will look into it

You missed it all, if you don't understand electronics (which is totally fine btw). You're missing all the diagnosis and looking for something simple. Eg Replace component X, clean up, reseat the pic, blow into the connector... it's not that simple. There are problems with the Resonator circuit to the pic/RTC, when then the power is off and its on the +vbattery supply. Probably due to battery damage to the components and potentially pcb traces. That's Andrews help and it's great, its more than enough to work with(I got it).... even if it's something slightly different on yours you can still nail that area of the card. It's a huge effort to explain to someone inexperienced, Every single component, testing, how to remove SMD components, how to meter each trace, resonator circuits in general, pic chips etc. If you want to fix it you need to start researching all these things (YouTube is great). The problem is it might take 10hours of intense help... you might fail or get frustrated... no one can tell exactly whats failed or what damage is there... thats its asking too much. People can only help to a point because everyone has there own projects on. Don't be put off though just take your time and learn the area yourself.

I'm sure it's going to be pristine when it's done. I've got a phobia about taking decks apart as Nick knows, I always seem to end up with a few springs and screws that don't go anywhere! What do you do about the wipers? I've seen a few decks where these are mangled and using my old BT relay adjusting tools I've managed to get them failrly straight and tensioned but if they break then you're stuffed.

wow im gobsmacked ron . i didnt realise decks could get this bad but it also shows they are repairable and made of sterner stuff than todays stuff. yeah i think that gearbox grease needs changing 😉. brilliant work ron and always in awe of work on electro stuff like this

Removing the reels and clutches from the drive shaft took much longer than expected, purely because the reel clutch discs were not only held in place by the usual springs and washers but a collar with a locking stud that clamps on the reel shaft. Not only were the locking studs seized but the rust had also seized the locking collars to the reel shaft making it time consuming having to careful release of these reel clutch collars from the reel drive shaft without causing damage. The state of the leather clutch washers speak for themselves as they had just about disintegrated. The reel drum studs are in much the same condition as the reel wipers.

The first task was to strip the unit down, Something that had not been done for many years. All the parts were rusted and seized. There are differences to the build of these mechs compared to BF and JPM. The reel studs are on the reel drum board and the wipers on the reel board which is opposite to the other manufacturers setup. On removing the reel boards the damage to the wipers is easily spotted, corrosion, evidence of some sort of possible lubricant and bent wiper arms, most probably had missed payout and the work applied to get the machine to register wins.

Full moon fever FullMoonFever_PROGRAM4.BIN FullMoonFever_PROGRAM3.BIN FullMoonFever_PROGRAM2.BIN FullMoonFever_PROGRAM1.BIN FullMoonFever_Sound2.BIN FullMoonFever_Sound1.BIN

I've got 3 MPU3's in at present which at first inspection didn't look to bad. Two of them though have been absolute horrors. This one has taken the best part of two days to get going and has had me going quite a few times. The first thing was the power regulator had the wires removed which was odd so these were reconnected. All the usual corroded bits were swapped out so then it was on to testing. Power up and a nice 5v but no sign of it booting. After a couple of minutes the 5v has dropped to about 1.5V and the regulator is running hot!! Checked for shorts and there weren't any. Switch on again and a nice 5v but a few mins later and here we go again. After disconnecting a few bits to try an isolate it I just ended up with the regulator board??? With it switched on and delivering a good 5v as soon as I touched the back of regulator transistor it shorted itself out?? I've never come across anything like that before. Anyway after a replacement was put in the 5V remained stable. That would have probably been enough for most folks but I'd hardly scratched the surface.So it still doesn't boot and after flexing the chassis up and down a couple of times the was no 5V on the board again. This time the red wire had broken and no amount of stripping it back showed any clean copper, which is normally the case. Off with the regulator board again, fit a new loom and off we go again. On power up the first check is to see if the CPU is running, which it wasn't. In with a new one and now there was activity on the address and data lines, stil no boot though it did initialise. Normally if you see a second twitch of the reels the diagnostics will show you what the fault might be by operating one of the triacs. In this case all the triacs were operated!! At some stage I discovered that the RAM chips were bad as well so it was in with my test motherboard to eliminate that one. The next chip to check was the 6840 as it's only a 28 pin device. With the chip removed it booted so it was time to move on as to why all the triacs were firing. This turned out to be IC3 (6821). With all the new IC's fitted it would now run all the diags with sound but I noticed one set of lights wasn't working and this turned out to be a BDX33 gone bad. Now the next one also had the wires removed from the regulator transistor!! Once these were connected and powered I was greeted with a big puff of smoke! C4 (1uf/35v tant)on the regulator board had gone short circuit. Once changed the 5v was good and the CPU was active. No boot though.... That's all for now folks, tune in later in the week, if I can work in the freezing cold, to see if I can sort this one.🥶

Great escape club epoch, if someone could test these as well it would be appreciated Maygay_greatescapeclub.G2.BIN Maygay_greatescapeclub.G1.BIN GreatEscapeclubSound2.BIN GreatEscapeclubSound1.BIN

No