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Steady on! I'm just starting to grasp how to post pics!

What an amazing machine. I've had my first 'JOKER' win; Aces, no less! An amazing sight. It didn't pay out, of course. That will be the next job. The smaller payouts, 5-10-15 all work. My first was a 15, which paid 10+5 as expected. Stupidly, I thought that meant the other two were working properly. First 5p payout paid 10p, followed by a 10p win which paid 5p. The coin which came from the 5p column was actually a new, current 10p. The money-box bodgers had been in action. A glance at the payout solenoids revealed all; the connections strained across from each to the other. Easy fix. None of the acceptors works, as usual. This is so common that I've bought a set of BA box spanners to take them out. Cleaning and polishing will usually fix those. I'm getting quite good at it. This was originally on 10p JPM tokens for wins over 20p. The token tube is missing, bit the slide and solenoid is still there. I'm guessing these are 27mm or 1" types. Are they available? I would like to get the token payout working, seeing as the glass hasn't been disfigured to make it 'all cash'. To be continued...

Yep, still a fair bit of 'bubbling' to remove yet. It's amazing how the stray voltages can track across the board even when it's bone dry. The slightest bit of breath would cause havoc. Without the bubbled solder resist you should find it's fine. Try it with a meter on high ohms range, one leg to ground and the other to any part of the bubbled board (not a track) and then breathe on it slightly. You should see the resistance plummet! I can't remember if I showed this in a vid in my repair thread? It was a real eye opener.

I did get a couple of pictures of one with Bobs bubbling up around the Amp chip area. It takes ages scraping to get rid of it. Hope these help mate. I'll probably log some of these ones when they're done.

Looking very good.its so pleasing to turn an old scrapper into a magical machine.and my tip is clean cab with furniture polish then use flash dash or similar spray on cab.and t molding.leave a minute or 2 then wipe with clean cloth.makes it look mint

Yeah they seem like hard boards to kill... that one looks promising mate. That's the perfect amount. I'm working on 3 like that and 3 worse. They seem to take more damage to the solder resist rather than the traces. These ones cleaned up with minimal damage to the tracks... litterally 1 or 2 breaks per board - it's all under thick solder so saves it. They take ages to clean up though. I didn't power this one up but it was running in a machine I picked up... i was amazed its a testament to how solid the tech is.

Lads i'm gonna sit all night de soldering stuff. I showed the mrs, she looked at me gone out. It's like when you get your first wank mag

If you tap them the components will just fall out 🙂

Well guys, im actually wondering how the hell I have survived without one of these for all these years. I have removed an amp and a sound chip from an old scorp 1 with no issues at all. I reflowed the solder first but jesus that was easy. Worth it's weight in gold for me. I personally have nothing bad to say about it. Thanks for the advice @Digbyand @midibob, really helped me out. Now to try and sort some of these scorp 1's out.

I always dismantle them down to each individual part .be very careful when taking the corner segments apart from the frame length s .the lugs that slide into the frame length s get a bit powdered and corroded and snap so take your time with them

Good luck on the restoration, it's the best bit of owning an old machine is restoring it to its form of glory! Great thread, and look forward to the updates on how you're getting on 🙂 Good luck matey 👍

Jesus, that is some resto job. I thought mine was bad but this is another level. Good luck.

Jeeves has decided to call it a day and has left the building but wizard has decided to return so all is not lost

Well I have a background in electronics hardware design before moving into software later. This is the thing with emulation you have to replicate all the chips exactly ( or very close to ) for it all to work. It's kinda got a lot easier over the years as you build up knowledge to fix issues quite quickly because you get to know where to look. All machines tend to work the same way, they just use different components. I try my best now to get everything as spot on as I can, not doing any half baked hacks anymore. A great deal of rewriting went on to try and optimise the code for speed also and there are a few parts coded directly in assember for instance. I can tell you one of the hardest ones to do that took the most time was the electro stuff. Both in coding terms and actually entering all the data needed.

Like you have worked a full day in your life anyway Graham

I tell you what Wizard, you've fucked me up royally. No work getting done, late late nights trying to get all the posts read and catch up on everything that has happened in the past week. What chance does a man have?? It doesn't help that, according to my gaffer, playing Supa Steppa with sound on my laptop is not a valid excuse for leaving work early and refusing to do any overtime. What does he know????? Pah! Anyway, thanks for fucking me up! :)

and gets my post count up