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I found this webpage , I hope the information within is correct and helpful to you now or in the future https://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Diode stay safe

I don't have a machine to test it on either, which is why I haven't offered. If I had a batch of display boards to repair then it would be worth me spending time setting up a test rig and figuring out the data format the display requires. For just one board I can't really justify it. The last time I built a rig was for Electrocoin credit boards. Compared to the above it was pretty simple, just a load of push buttons and a couple of coin meters.

Turn the machine on then turn the light off!

inside the front door there is a large lever which unlocks the playfield glass clamp at the front, once lever is moved remove clamp by lifting it up and out. next slide out the playfield glass toward you until completely out of table the playfield can now be lifted at front and is hinged at back. there should be a wooden or metal arm inside and usually right hand side of cabinet to keep the playfield held up to inspect all the works there should be a locked door at the back of the top box to allow access to the score drums etc in the back too.

Thanks for everyones input so far If anyone wants to try and test or fix or both my display please let me know lol Or have more ideas what to do.. Your all awesome

I have nothing to test it on or repair it with or I would have a go,unless the glass is broken and vacuum gone my guess is it's good.really seems it's not getting power to me and that can be a few issues as canon man has said.personelly from what I've read I think its either the caps and or onboard small transformer.

Got a flyer if any use guys

Hi gents, Im after a bunch of fruit machines for a holiday location : Astra Celebration, Astra party time player Electrocoin Super Bar X Any project coin machines, Any Electrocoin casino cabs, Club climber barcrest, Any other MPU4s >>> Now, before you all start laughing your heads off, Im only after the DXs of the machines (had yous going there for a minute didnt I?) See Im away on holiday in a wee bit and its still under level 2 rules so stuffs gonna be shut and the seaside arcades are either closed or limited to redemption rubbish, so I thought I would take an arcade with me. I can only download a couple of files at a time from the fruit-emu, I did try and donate to them a while back but I never gained a supporters badge, so I thought I would ask here. Drop me anything youve got saved away, about 20 or so DXs will keep me occupied when Im not out walking to the harbour etc. Thanks in advance, if It helps I could drop some beer tokens for a USB stick to be sent to me etc. Speak later and thanks in advance again!

Yep.

You still need to do two things, which I've mentioned already: 1) Check all the power rails are present and correct on the PSU 2) Check the integrity of the wiring from the display board to the CPU board. There's no point pissing around with the display board until you've done these two basic checks.

More observations, now I've had chance to jump on a PC and look at the photos properly.... The wiring around the power socket looks fine to me. Power comes in via the IEC socket, the live wire goes via one of the fuseholders (the other is unused) to the power switch, then on to the rest of the machine. If the machine lights up and the display board briefly flashes on power up, the mains wiring must be fine so leave it alone! Certainly don't mess around with the fuse, it's there for safety reasons and should be of the correct type (time delay or quick blow) and the correct ampage. The ratings label on the back of the machine should give details of the required fuse values. The display board appears to be built around a microcontroller of some sort, probably a PIC, at position U2. This will be responsible for the display flashing briefly on power-up. Until is gets some data to display from the main board (whatever is at the other end of the flat cable) it will just sit there doing nothing. The design of the display board looks almost textbook to me. AC power comes in with the data on the 8-pin connector. The AC is rectified to DC via diodes D12 to D15, smoothed by C6 and then regulated down to 5 volts by U5 and C7/C8. A secondary module in the corner produces the voltages required by the display glass. The OKI chip is the display driver, and the two DS2003CN chips drive the LEDs. U6 appears to be a 74HC14N buffer chip that buffers the incoming data signal from the main board before passing it on to the microcontroller. I'll stand by what I said earlier. The mains wiring looks okay so I'd leave it alone. The display board appears to be okay and is just waiting for some data to be sent to it from whatever the other end of the flat cable is plugged into. Please add some photos of what the cable is connected to at the other end and we'll go from there.