Leaderboard

Took the power inlet all apart, then after use of rust remover, a junior hack saw, some white paint and a new socket we're sorted out and earthed. Nice removable kettle-style lead and socket with an illuminated power switch.

Them switches look correct.as for coin mechs I wash in warm soapy water,rinse then hang out to dry.many of the female spades become loose and cause havoc.but in my experience it's rare that micro switches fail and even rarer for relays to fail,unless someone has been messing.

One of my machines arrived with mechs in very poor corroded condition, the good points about electro machines are that they can be stripped right down to component parts to clean and repair.

Did some more work last night. So the "10p 2 plays" light not working was just a blown bulb. The "No change" light was also a blown bulb, so I replaced it and it blew again. Looking at the schematic, that bulb is on the 50v circuit so putting in a 6v bulb isn't going to work too well. Ordered a few 1.5w and a few 2w bulbs to replace it, I'll see which looks best when they arrive. The cam switches I ordered came in the post, they are fortunately the right size so I was able to replace the suspect switch on the control unit and also replace a broken connector on another switch. That has now fixed the double/lose buttons not flashing, and also stopped the scrambler unit motor from sometimes running after the game was over. It now only continues to run if the game was a win, which according to the schematic is what it should do. So time to pull these crusty coin mechs...

In my experience, the last thing coin mechs need is lubrication.

So once it arrived with me, I of course conducted a full electrical safety check before trying anything. Or as we actually tend to do, I just plugged it in and switched it on. The Good... Takes coins, spins reels on start, hold buttons work when activated. Pays out (or would if there were any 10p coins in it) The Not So Good.... Double/Lose feature lights up and flashes, but most times even on a "Double" you lose. Sometimes after a game is done, one of the motors carries on running until after the next game. Maybe that's normal, not sure. @BF74has a schematic he's going to scan for me, so hopefully that will help clear that up. Reel 3 doesn't spin at all - found broken connector on the coil that releases the reel. Reel 1 stops at the right time (first), but then the coil activates briefly a couple of times and the reel jumps ahead a symbol or two. Hack job on the power inlet and no earth Probably a bunch of other things