Leaderboard

Had a few hours spare today so into the machine to try to find if battery was on the board I’ve had it about a year. It did remember credits after turning off for a while so had a good idea it was on there. Never took off an mpu4 board before so after taking pics before for reference putting back together and taking my time I got all the plugs off and got the board out. The dreaded battery was on the board but surprisingly looked new and someone had soldered it in pretty badly 🤦🏻 👎🏻 Gutted !! Why you would do this I’ve no idea? Either way it had to come out so set about removing and eventually got it out. Leaving a bit of a mess to say the least. At this point I was going to give up and send it off as i felt out my depth but persevered. After a few attempts I managed to re connect the battery and also the lifted pieces of track and eventually onto the board it’s self. Drilled a new hole for the fly wire and put casing back together and put back in the machine which was tougher than I thought! All back in place and didn’t want to turn it on 🤣🤣 worried !! Anyway much to my amazement it fired up and remembered credits and bank when switched off for a while ! Couldn’t believe it I had done it my first battery fly wired. Hopefully it will prolong the machines life 🙌🏻 Although daunting and no idea what I was doing at times I really enjoyed it, it took me hours 😂 Big Thankyou to Mart for the help via DM your a gentleman 👍🏻

Its a Louth Coin conversion. They did Golden and silver Nudges too 🙂

Yes me too you can just see the blue fur appearing on the battery I took off, and that was not the original and recently soldered onto the board 👀

Done the same with mine to only a few weeks ago with 2 AA rechargeable batteries and it was just showing the first sign of leaking so just did it in time 😀

The board is usually only touched once anyway, it’s the battery at the end of the fly wire that’s changed. We’ll that’s the theory at least.

Much less prone to it, but they can still leak as they still use a liquid electrolyte, you have to keep them in warm and dry conditions but they won't self detonate in the same way if cared for.

A good thing to know when you start out is- solder sticks like sh1t to a blanket and its naturally horrible, the whisp of smelly flux has all burned away and you end up with a really sticky solder that's difficult to work with and hard to get moving. Before you use your gear to remove the solder you can brush some rosin flux on the joints with something like a small model brush. With old boards some flux is essential because sometimes the old joints are scaily or corroded. Flux changes the properties of the molten flux so it will 'flow', a buzzword I use is 'transfer'. If solder is molten with some flux it will move easily should it be with braid or vacuum. You can even heat up fresh solder to mix with what's in the joint to help it out if its particularly stubborn. Everyone uses there own temperature so experiment, I use around 380'c. Soldering a new joint you should heating the pin, not the board. It's a 1‐2‐3 (sometimes 4 lol). With Desoldering if your ditching the component a little more. If you have to come off and go back on the pin you can let it cool slightly. Just be conscious that you don't want to pummel to much heat into the board. Things like transistors just do one pin and let it cool for a minute to start off with. Large Ics you can criss cross like cylinder head bolts so the heat is not all in one place... touching now and again to check the heat. You should be happy though, a first fly wire is as good as any board repair. Once you get the hang of transferring and flowing solder around with flux you will be on the track repairs in no time

They have, but it’s expensive so I guess the dangling battery on a wire will prevail 😊 Tidy job tho ….. https://www.roseautomatics.co.uk/product-page/rose-automatics-board-saver

Good job and glad it all worked out, safe for another few years Someone needs to invent a battery holder for these mainboard batteries, you did a tidy job with the new battery.

Wow, thanks for that. There's so little of this tech about unless folks have all the old bits squirrelled away somewhere. Let's hope the ROMs are still readable as it will be good to get them dumped on the Mecca.

I've got a couple of ROM cards for this tech, one for Rainbows End and one for Silver Machine. They'll be coming your way soon, hopefully be handy for testing purposes if nothing else!

I'm sure this ticket machine malarkey has already been emulated.

Thankyou canon man 👍🏻

AY-3-8912

Here's mine .carfield/dransfield defo.they did seem to mess about with the fruit symbols and buttons .

It's been a while but I've been beavering away with this tech over the preceeding months on and off. I've now got 3 X CPU cards functioning, the test rig almost complete but functional and it looks like two working chassis. I'll do a complete write up on all this when I get some time. Also managed to find a source for NOS CPU's at a reasonable price, and they work. One major issue has cropped up and this is with the game software, Bullion Bars. The CPU only came with one 2732 fitted and the links set for a 2716 in the second position but with no chip. The other software is Clubman and this appears to run fine as it has 2 x 2732 chips. The unknown factor at present is does Bullion Bars only have one chip or should there be two. With only the one chip it does boot but never initialises the reels and consequently doesn't do anything else. I know these machines are about as rare as it gets but someone out there might know something.

No worries, shame it’s not working, nice to put a pic to the machine now. Thank you. I might pass them on to a guy I know can potentially knock a DX out for mfme a lot faster than me if that’s ok with you? J

If its tripping your electric you will have an issue with PSU to Board fault. First I'd check the lead that goes from the PSU to the board. White plug,bottom right of the board. Check the top 2 pins. If the plug is scorched then there's the start of your fault. Unplug psu from the board and switch on to see if it trips your supply.