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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/09/22 in all areas

  1. Quick update I’ve just finished stripped the metalwork off to go to the powedercoaters on Monday. The glass has come up well, scratch free but has got some signs of artwork imperfections but it’s very very minor and just on the very edge (mainly some mirror sections), like I say very minor (I’m being really anal!). I tested the MPU4 after cleaning it and BOOM it works ! Incredible. Reelbands all good - reel 1 has some lifting at the joint but no damage. Plenty more to do 😊 Questions/opinions - re-coat frames original brown colour or go with the slightly later silver? I’m thinking keep it original - brown? But I do prefer silver…. Decision decisions!
    1 point
  2. Hmmm I'm curious too.
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  3. Jackpot! You were 100% right! The switch seems dead in fact. Or seems mis-wired. If I disconnect the top wire, the change system works ! The small button is correctly clicking. And with ohmmeter, the middle contact change state upon button position. But not the top button. I think it is a badly wired case. Thanks one more time for your help!
    1 point
  4. Look at that refill switch, It looks like the small button under the lever arm is in the open position, the switch levers should keep the button pressed. When the refill lock is turned, the lock cam opens the switch and puts the machine in refill mode. The cam arm of the refill lock in that closed position should keep the refill switches closed. Back door open only isolates the meters not the payout's
    1 point
  5. Just searched for these bulbs Ronnie, and these are the ones I bought, and they work an absolute treat! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133666669240?hash=item1f1f2782b8:g:8qgAAOxy7vJTdgix
    1 point
  6. I have a perfect working one here along with plenty of parts
    1 point
  7. I got some of those bulbs 💡 a while back Ronnie, I will dig out and let you know!
    1 point
  8. There's a classic layout for this machine already, so the roms including sound are available. Of course a DX would be great, so hopefully decent images, will one day come about.
    1 point
  9. Latest update… Firstly, happy new year & thanks to everyone who left words of encouragement for me. I’ve done nothing until a couple of days ago when I sprung into action… IC3, 4, 5, 6 now socketed with new 6821P’s IC11 also socketed with a new LS138 C28 & C39 and D43 replaced Continuity tested everything, tidied up everywhere with a fibre pencil, and mopped up with IPA. Feeling confident I connected up just white power/yellow/aux1/red/red/green leads and powering on I got absolutely nothing… just flo tubes lit. So I unplugged it all and made a brew. My first thought was scrap it, enough is enough. I do need a 10p solenoid, another machine has an iffy red lead, and a spare PSU and reel driver board will always be good to have etc. But within 10 mins I snapped out of it & started probing about. I discovered a load of pins high on IC9 which had apparently died. Another mpu3 curve ball. Dropped in a replacement for IC9 and connected up… this time reels stepped then spun, well A, B & D did, and C just jammed then alarmed… but I’d never been so happy to see a reel alarm as this surely meant it’s fully booting and no longer stuck in reset!! I checked the reel driver transistors first and thought it was T49 but replacing it gave no improvement. Probed IC13-IC15 and pins 1 and 3 on reel C’s IC14 were dead. Removed IC14 and fitted a replacement 74LS04 in a socket, and guess what… FullSizeRender.MOV
    1 point
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