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I have drawn a draft replacement Lamp mask in CAD and I'll 3D print the replacements. I'll be able to finalise the size when the bottom glass is ready. Also given the size may need to print in sections. But doable.

Finished artwork ready to print For the last couple of weeks I've been working with the graphic designer from India. After close to 20 revisions the new artwork is now complete and are ready to be sent for printing on to glass. The top glass is less complex as there are no cutout sections, where as on the bottom glass for the reels or credit display etc. For the bottom glass I have taken measurements from the scaled pictures and also measurements of the reel locations on my existing Top Line glass. I've drawn a mask layer to be printed in black after the colour layers as well as the background layer thats a close copy of the original. The artwork looks fine and I won't know if its 100% until it is fitted to my machine. Once it's perfect, I can get some more made if there is interest. In the meantime, I'm pretty pleased with the results so far.

New glass and artwork As original or reproduction Line Up or Super Line Up glass is not available, I decided to go about sourcing a replacement. The biggest challenge is to recreate the artwork in a vectorised high resolution format to allow quality replacements to be printed on to glass. I plan to get the new glass printed by Olly at the Arcade Art Shop. The artwork needs to be created in Adobe Illustrator, I have a basic knowledge of the software but I am by no means an expert. In the past I have used an online marketplace called Fiverr.com where you post project, IT professionals bid for the work and take on paid assignments. Generally the graphics professionals are from India, in my experience the speed and quality of the work is good and can get a project to about 95% with revisions. Then I make any final changes needed. Cost is around £50 per drawing plus a few hours of my time to finalise. First step is to provide as much detail as possible, in this case I used a copy of the Line Up glass scans from this site as a guide and also provided high resolution photographs of key areas of detail to get as close a reproduction as possible. The pictures and measurements were provided by a couple of collector friends. Thanks to @Slotto - Duane Mark McLoughlin

I had the same with old chips and sometimes you can fix it with: A lot of patience. A small, fine metal file. Fine wire. Same size wire as pin, pressing the end flat. Temperature controlled soldering iron (preferably with active tip end, so you can stay close to 190C as you’re very close to the chip core). Good quality(!), small diameter lead/tin solder with no-clean flux core. The gist of it is to file some plastic a little bit away, so you get a small contact to work with. Then apply some soldering practices to nail on a fine wire. After work, insert chip into socket and then insert the bigger wires into the broken pins, sandwiching the fine wires along with it. Finally, don’t ever touch it again 😅 Has got me out of a pickle a few times and those devices still work.

Think this would be the chip that can be programmed to run as the system 80 PAL

It was at least a couple of years, 5th April 1994 through to November 1999, although for at least the whole of that last year I was with Core.

yes you are correct. it is a 1986 Superbars from barcrest

Very impressive

Great story. Thanks for sharing! Some dedication required 👏

Good read that and well worth a slobber.

I came across this one today with another machine I picked up,, these don’t come around often 😄

Another great read Frank and thanks for taking the time to write all this up .

Another tip (if it turned out not to be the PAL): If the broken pins are still in the socket, you make a small contact and solder them in situ. Again, don’t touch after.

I think that’s a system 80 machine and the file for that pal chip is on this site somewhere. you will need to buy a blank chip and get it programmed with the file.

Which machine is it from?

Its not just the chip you need, but the jdec table as well to program a new one. It is not as simple as just finding anew chip.

So now I've tried the new floppy drive Alan sent and bingo it works,now I'm going to fit battery and mount it all properly and put coins in tubes.then try playing it.many thanks Alan,massive help. 20230717_190238.mp4