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Thanks. No that’s the way the white PETG prints, no need to paint it. Also can withstand 100 degrees before warping. Can be sanded, glued or drilled.

Yep that is the one BF74, good machine. Fuck, all the machines I have owned, sold or scrapped over the years....I should be jailed !!!!

Yes that’s my 3D printer, I’ve had it for a few years and used it for various projects over the years. Pretty much anything plastic can be re created. The plastic is tough and can be drilled or even tapped with threads. I will post the .stl files when I’m happy it’s correct, then you can send those to a print service to get them printed or do it yourself. The .stl files are the universal instructions that printers use for models.

That is ridiculously brilliant wow! Great to see . It’s all going to look brilliant 👌

Top work! Do you have your own 3D printer or do you farm it out to a commercial print service?

Looking great. I could never get it working so moved it on. Mr p owns it now so maybe able to help you with the sound

Absolutely brilliant work on that lamp mask.

Fantastic work Ed looking forward to the finished project 😄 if you need any parts reel bands etc give us a shout 👍

Even better and great that it's durable too .this is what 3d printing was made for !

Looks pretty dam brilliant ed .that's a work of art and patience 👍👍did you spray the plastic masking once it was printed or is that how it's turned out ?

Lamp mask I spent some time over the weekend working on the lamp mask. I’ve used some pictures from previous restorations for reference. I created a full size print of the bottom glass art and also used the Adobe illustrator drawing for measurements. I use an online cad program at www.Onshape.com (this is a free online service that works on the web browser). I created the drawings for the lamp masks, then test printed a basic grid to check the measurements and scale. As the 3D printer build plate is 235 mm x 235 mm I split the mask into parts to simplify the build. 4 parts for the main mask and then one for the bottom row of lamps in the centre. For this project I used PETG 3D printing filament in white. I use a slicer program called Simplify3D. Once complete the parts will be permanently bonded together with PET glue. I left the top double section without holes to make it easier to print without distortion. I’ll drill those holes later. I’ve ordered some double sided foam tape to fix the mask to the glass. Once I have the glass and have double checked the size and it’s 100% then I’ll share the .STL files in this post.

Token conversion While the glass is away being printed and I am waiting for the reel bands / barcrest coin decals to arrive, I decided to to carry on with a couple of other tasks. I have printed a set of temporary reel bands on A4 and taped the 3 sections together. They are not perfect but good enough to test with for the time being. Next is to adjust the coin mech to accept a 10p token instead of the 2p. This is done by adjusting the coin diameter screws and moving the bar upwards to allow the larger coin to pass through. I ordered a replacement coin tube for the tokens. I bought a 35mm OD and 29mm ID x 400mm Perspex acrylic clear tube from eBay. I then swapped over the coin solenoid for a slightly larger blue 10p version from a spare I had. I’ve linked out the coin level sensors for the time being. Then a quick test to make sure the token payout works.