Leaderboard

Yes that’s my 3D printer, I’ve had it for a few years and used it for various projects over the years. Pretty much anything plastic can be re created. The plastic is tough and can be drilled or even tapped with threads. I will post the .stl files when I’m happy it’s correct, then you can send those to a print service to get them printed or do it yourself. The .stl files are the universal instructions that printers use for models.

All top stuff 👍

I know how long it takes to design and print bits so I doth my cap to you sir.

Thanks. No that’s the way the white PETG prints, no need to paint it. Also can withstand 100 degrees before warping. Can be sanded, glued or drilled.

Lamp mask I spent some time over the weekend working on the lamp mask. I’ve used some pictures from previous restorations for reference. I created a full size print of the bottom glass art and also used the Adobe illustrator drawing for measurements. I use an online cad program at www.Onshape.com (this is a free online service that works on the web browser). I created the drawings for the lamp masks, then test printed a basic grid to check the measurements and scale. As the 3D printer build plate is 235 mm x 235 mm I split the mask into parts to simplify the build. 4 parts for the main mask and then one for the bottom row of lamps in the centre. For this project I used PETG 3D printing filament in white. I use a slicer program called Simplify3D. Once complete the parts will be permanently bonded together with PET glue. I left the top double section without holes to make it easier to print without distortion. I’ll drill those holes later. I’ve ordered some double sided foam tape to fix the mask to the glass. Once I have the glass and have double checked the size and it’s 100% then I’ll share the .STL files in this post.

Token conversion While the glass is away being printed and I am waiting for the reel bands / barcrest coin decals to arrive, I decided to to carry on with a couple of other tasks. I have printed a set of temporary reel bands on A4 and taped the 3 sections together. They are not perfect but good enough to test with for the time being. Next is to adjust the coin mech to accept a 10p token instead of the 2p. This is done by adjusting the coin diameter screws and moving the bar upwards to allow the larger coin to pass through. I ordered a replacement coin tube for the tokens. I bought a 35mm OD and 29mm ID x 400mm Perspex acrylic clear tube from eBay. I then swapped over the coin solenoid for a slightly larger blue 10p version from a spare I had. I’ve linked out the coin level sensors for the time being. Then a quick test to make sure the token payout works.

Finished artwork ready to print For the last couple of weeks I've been working with the graphic designer from India. After close to 20 revisions the new artwork is now complete and are ready to be sent for printing on to glass. The top glass is less complex as there are no cutout sections, where as on the bottom glass for the reels or credit display etc. For the bottom glass I have taken measurements from the scaled pictures and also measurements of the reel locations on my existing Top Line glass. I've drawn a mask layer to be printed in black after the colour layers as well as the background layer thats a close copy of the original. The artwork looks fine and I won't know if its 100% until it is fitted to my machine. Once it's perfect, I can get some more made if there is interest. In the meantime, I'm pretty pleased with the results so far.

Line Up roms There seems to only be one version of Line Up roms available online, I found a set with 2 files and then the various copies available on emulator sites that are combined sets into one hex file that have been built for use with emulators. I compared the all of the files that I could find with the hex editor and all sets seem to be the same origin. I used the example from @Road Runner and applied the same methodology in removing the checksum routine and the bypassing the CHR check. The assembler code makes sense but it's been a long time since I worked with it last. I patched the hex files in the same way as the example. Hex P1 searched for the CHR check sequence B6 30 00 and replaced it with AF A6 01 Hex P2 searched for the checksum code sequence BD 70 81 and replaced with 4F 4F 4F Then I burned the rom images to eproms and tested them in the program card, all worked fine and the machine booted and played well. From what I read these are not the original version with the bug that allows a feature hold after the attract mode. Maybe I'll find a set of these one day. I attach a copy of my patched LU roms as well as the stock sets and Road Runner Patched SLU roms just incase they are of any use for anyone. SLU LU Patched Roms.zip Thanks to Road Runner

Program card and Eproms After some research on this site I have learned that the Super Line Up and Line Up roms are protected with the CHR chip, so I would need a modified chipset as the CHR chips are not readily available. One of the memory cards that I bought was from a 2p On Line, it still had the CHR chip fitted but after checking that would have been from an Adders & Ladders and apparently they are specific the the machine so no use with the Line Up. I studied one of the posts from @Road Runner where he removed the checksum and CHR check routine from a couple of Barcrest rom sets. I dusted off my old eprom programmer and burned a set of patched Super Line Up roms from that post. Changed the links on the program card and they worked perfectly, couldn't resist a quick play. Need to get some Line Up roms working next.